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  #41  
Old 03-05-2007
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sailaway21 is just really nice sailaway21 is just really nice sailaway21 is just really nice sailaway21 is just really nice
I hope chrondi not reading this. He has rather strong feelings on child labor
Nice job. btw, when I can get her to quit running around my teenage daughter is a pretty fair hand with a brush too. Must be something about mid-western girls.
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  #42  
Old 03-06-2007
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A related question for the waxing/polishing mavens: how do you clean the buffer pads? Can I wash them in my home washing machine?
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  #43  
Old 03-06-2007
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"Can I wash them in my home washing machine?"
I'm guessing that you can. If, and only if, you are unmarried or plan to buy another washing machine for the clothes.
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  #44  
Old 03-06-2007
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Maine Sail is just really nice Maine Sail is just really nice Maine Sail is just really nice Maine Sail is just really nice
Yes you can wash them..

Yes you can wash them in a washing machine however a front loader is preffered and is kinder and gentler on your pads. Fill a 5 gal bucket with cold water and rinse them in there by hand first to get as much residue off as you can then toss them in the washer with Woolite and wash on cold. DO NOT dry these pads in a dryer you wil ruin them or at the least turn a polishing grade pad into a buffing grade pad, or a buffing pad into a very coarse wool pad. Remember these pads are made of wool and need to be washed in cold and air dried. At the boat yard I use a 5 gal bucket to rinse build up out and then "spin it" in the bucket with the pad below the bucket sides so you don't wear all the water that is spun out of the pad. Even after spinning it on the highest speed, for about a minute, it will still be to wet for compounding so I use towels to dry it as best I can.

I personally don't use wool much any more and have switched to a brand of pad called CCS or Collapsed Cell Structure pads. There is nothing wrong with wool I just find the CCS pads to be more predictable with the results I am looking for but then again I'm a picky bastard. As the wool pads become saturated with moisture, from the compound or polish, they change their cutting characteristics slightly and the CCS pads don't. CCS pads are a collapsed cell foam pad and come in many grades. I buy them from AutoGeek.com and below is a link to the CCS pads page from Autogeek. If these pads are safe enough to use on my wifes convertable then they are more than safe for gelcoat. These pads are hi tech stuff but wool is fine if properly cared for!
http://www.autogeek.net/lc-ccs-foam-pads.html

By the way this car has 144k miles on it and this is the original paint!

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 03-06-2007 at 07:11 PM.
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  #45  
Old 03-30-2007
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Oh hell, now I'm all confused.

Delightful discussion, and insanely informative, but....

I just bought a '76 Columbia 26K. She's been in the sun for a while, and her deck is, well, not exactly chalky (it doesn't come off on your hand like chalked paint), but it feels like it's getting there. No shine at all.

The problem is, I have no idea what products may have been used on the boat before, or even if it's gelcoat, Awlgrip, or some other coating.

So since I don't know what products have been used before (if any ), what should I choose as my course of action? I plan to do *above* the hull/deck joint immediately, and do waterline to the joint next spring (time budgeting).

I don't want to use the wrong product and be kicking myself in three months....
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  #46  
Old 03-30-2007
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Thumbs up wax sealer

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonic
The Collinite 885 is no joke when the prep is done right. I use it, I don't get the results halekai36 does but it lasts hands down. This is a twisted bunch I love it. PEACE and happy sailing.
The 885 mentioned works great for my boat, best I have used. Used the 3M products several times with okay results. After the wax I applied Interlux Wax Sealer and UV Protector for the first time, it gave a beautiful glossy finish on a 25 year hull. For the deck I have been using Woody Wax, safe for Non Skid with fantastic results...as reported in Practical Sailor.

Gave up on those stains DEEP in the gel coat
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  #47  
Old 03-30-2007
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Pmoyer...It is unlikely that your deck is anything other than gelcoat unless you can see brushmarks from a paint job. So...compound the surface of the deck in a small area and see if the oxidation looks better...then try a polish/wax routine as Halekai suggests or the Poli-glow treatment discussed earlier.
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  #48  
Old 03-31-2007
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PM-
There are a lot of good products out there, but in the interest of easy availability, non-chandlery prices, and good tech support from a one-stop shop? I'd call 3M's toll-free number and ask them for specifics about using their fiberglass polishes and products on it. I'm sure you can find their automotive products division on the web, that'll get you started. They are great about getting you to the right department, for ANY product they make, if you call.

Their fiberglass products are used in the auto body shop industry as well as marine and other users. They'll probably tell you to lightly compound the deck (to remove the chalky gelcoat) and then polish it and seal it after a solvent cleaning (i.e. "Prep Solve") to remove all materials that were used on it before. Plain solvents will remove wax--the specialty prep solvents will remove most of the synthetics, silicones, etc. as well.

There are also anti-skid deck waxes, I don't know if 3M makes them, but I'd apply that as the last step to any flat deck surface that you're going to polish.
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  #49  
Old 03-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
There are also anti-skid deck waxes, I don't know if 3M makes them, but I'd apply that as the last step to any flat deck surface that you're going to polish.
Woody Wax



http://www.woody-wax.com/news.php
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  #50  
Old 04-25-2007
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hailing up the sailing vessel Acustic

Halekia36,
How long did you wait between coats of nu finish?
Thanks for the post by the way, I hope I don't get mugged anytime soon,
there's no way I'm getting my hands over my head

Chef,
how did you apply the woody wax did you put over the whole top sde or just on the non skid?
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