
03-07-2007
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Catalina 38 Avantura
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Michigan
Posts: 208
Rep Power: 12
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You'll need a good hot soldering iron with a medium to large sized tip to hold the heat while you heat the center tip of the connector, then the outer ground shell. If the tip of the iron is too small, the large surface area of the connector will suck the heat right out of it and the iron will not be able to heat things back up (Imagine placing a hot penny on a metal plate versus a clothes iron heated to the same temperature placed onto a metal plate; which one do you think will cool off faster?). The iron also needs to be hot enough, to heat the area up quickly so that the whole end of the cable doesn't heat up over time and melt the inner dialectric material. Cut everything to the lengths specified in the instructions that came with the connector, make sure they fit, then pre-tin the center conductor before assemble. When ready to assemble, put your parts together and heat the connector/cable with the iron. Heat until the solder melts on the connector/cable contact point, and let the solder wick into where it is supposed to go. DO NOT heat the solder on the soldering iron tip then place this on the connector hoping this will work; you will end up with a cold solder joint that will fail. All components to be assembled must be heated, along with the solder for the solder to bond correctly. It's actually easier than it sounds. The one thing you should make sure you do is slid any furrels, grommets, shrink wrap or whatever onto the cable BEFORE you solder anything. There is nothing I hate more than doing a great solder job only to realize that whatever else is supposed to be on the cable, on the OTHER side of the now soldered connector, cannot be slid on over the connector, so you now have to unsolder your just-done-perfect solder job and start all over.
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Sincerely,
Russ Duff
Catalina 38, Hull #112
"AVANTURA"
Lake Erie
Grosse Ile, Michigan
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