coolant loss troubleshooting recommendations? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 39 Old 03-11-2007 Thread Starter
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i don't think so as i have had to do this a few times already. the engine was fixed a couple months ago and after i run it 'hard' i seem to have to add coolant (hard being around 2k rpm - engine is good for 3k rpm fyi)
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post #12 of 39 Old 03-11-2007
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mr kieth...OK...assuming you are not getting any in the bilge and there are no visible leaks anywhere (you did check that water pump right?)....There are no outlets for the green stuff except your exhaust system or your crankcase.
Pigslo is right that the heat exchanger and the oil cooler (if you have one) are the only places that you can lose green stuff to the exhaust. To check these, each must be removed and pressure tested if visible inspection reveals nothing.
The easiest first step though is changing your oil to be double sure it is not getting into your oil system first...since you will probably want an oil change to start the season anyway.
Eliminating this possibility leaves you with only the exchangers as possibilities and I would start with the heat exchanger as most tranny oil coolers use fresh water rather than the sealed system for cooling.
Edit: Re-reading your last post...what temperature are you seeing on your guage when you run at 2000 or is it just an "idiot light"?
Good luck and let us know what you find.
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post #13 of 39 Old 03-11-2007
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I think you mean that tranny oil coolers use raw water, rather than the sealed system for cooling. Fresh water is a term that is a bit confusing when it comes to sailboat engines and their cooling systems.

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post #14 of 39 Old 03-11-2007
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Sounds not good then. If the head was off to fix an oil leak, it may now have created a water leak. The coolant has to pass from head to block the same as the oil (via a different bore of course) and back again. I have had an engine that lost water steadily. It was all being sucked into one cylinder and blown out as steam. Not easy to detect from external signs. The big snag is that the water may accumulate in the cylinder while stationary for a long period and that could turn very nasty - both from a corrosion and an (in)compression point of view. I suggest you alert the shop that did the maintenance. If they are responsible people, they will at least come and check.
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post #15 of 39 Old 03-11-2007
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I rebuilt engines in my GTOs as a "child" growing up in Houston so I thought my 4-108 would be easy. Jaysus! Diesels are complicated most in the water and oil cooling system. I took digital pictures and made notes as to the path and purpose of each hose. You don't need to rebuild your engine to understand it but tracing all the hoses would make you a bit more self sufficient. Check your tranny fluid while you are at it.
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post #16 of 39 Old 03-11-2007
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O.K. The water being pumped thru the engine block goes through an oil cooler that has both engine and transmission fluid in dual chambers ( just checked).
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post #17 of 39 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie
mr kieth...OK...assuming you are not getting any in the bilge and there are no visible leaks anywhere (you did check that water pump right?)....There are no outlets for the green stuff except your exhaust system or your crankcase.
Pigslo is right that the heat exchanger and the oil cooler (if you have one) are the only places that you can lose green stuff to the exhaust. To check these, each must be removed and pressure tested if visible inspection reveals nothing.
The easiest first step though is changing your oil to be double sure it is not getting into your oil system first...since you will probably want an oil change to start the season anyway.
Eliminating this possibility leaves you with only the exchangers as possibilities and I would start with the heat exchanger as most tranny oil coolers use fresh water rather than the sealed system for cooling.
Edit: Re-reading your last post...what temperature are you seeing on your guage when you run at 2000 or is it just an "idiot light"?
Good luck and let us know what you find.
temp is about 150 to 160 and oil pressure is around 40-60
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post #18 of 39 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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if i just keep using it while i am trying to figure out the problem, while making sure the coolant level is full up, is that a problem? i guess realistically this could be as simple as the radiator cap isnt completely sealed (although it appears to be) to the coolant is being sucked somewhere into the engine. it if when to the oil, wouldnt the oil be looking a bit green?
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post #19 of 39 Old 03-12-2007
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Not trying to be curt, but hard to say since we don't know the cause. Damage range.... nothing to rusted cylinder walls. Keep looking, you will find it
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post #20 of 39 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigslo
Not trying to be curt, but hard to say since we don't know the cause. Damage range.... nothing to rusted cylinder walls. Keep looking, you will find it
pigslo
thank you. i was told maybe that the cylinder head gasket maybe be bad and that to test this you take of the radiator cap, rev the engine, and if coolant spills over it means the gasket is bad. does that make sense?
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