Link battery monitor setup for AGM's - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 22 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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Link battery monitor setup for AGM's

Anyone using a Link battery monitor with AGM's? Math not being my strong point, I was wondering what setting changes, if any, you made for AGM's over the factory ones.

Thanks,

John
Ontario 32 - Aria

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True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
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post #2 of 22 Old 03-12-2007
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John...I'm no math whiz so I did not calculate a Peukerts # for the AGM's. I do know that
1. AGM's have lower P#'s
2. Factory default for the link is 1.24 for flooded.
3. Theoretical ideal is 1.05

So...I split the difference to 1.14 on the link which shows me with about 12 amps more capacity at the 20 hour discharge rate than with the 1.24 setting for a 4D with 200 A/H rating. It only makes a small difference overall so I don't think being a bit off hurts the monitoring much....and if you left it totally alone you'd just show 12 amps less capacity on a 200 amp battery.

Of course you also need to enter your new battery amp capacity into the link as well. I downloaded a spead sheet that showed me the effect on capacity ratings based on P# changes. Would be happy to e-mail you a copy if you PM me with your address and if it is of interest. Otherwise...

Set peukerts # at 1.14 and enter your total banks ampere capacity and you'll be fine.
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post #3 of 22 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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Thanks Cam. What voltage did you use? Already set the capacity, it was the Peukerts that had me stumped. You can e-mail me off my profile.

John
Ontario 32 - Aria

Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love.
JCP


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post #4 of 22 Old 03-12-2007
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Hey Pb,

Can you put it here (the voltage, etc.). I am going to be putting one of these in very soon.

- CD

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post #5 of 22 Old 03-12-2007 Thread Starter
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Hey CD, you're the one with intials after your name, why ask a college drop out?

John
Ontario 32 - Aria

Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love.
JCP


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post #6 of 22 Old 03-12-2007
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Voltage default on the Link is factory set at 13.2V. You most likely do not have to change this as this only affects how it calculates whether your battery is fully charged.
What IS important is that you know what finishing (float) voltage your regulator or battery CHARGER uses in its' AGM setting. (Mine is 13.4V) It is important that your Charger float voltage is higher than the setting on the Link.
Example...if your float Voltage is 13.2V you need to lower the Link voltage to 13.1V.
When the Link sees 13.1 V or HIGHER AND amps of charging current fall below 4% of battery capacity...(i.e. 8 amps on a 200 amp battery bank) it will "label" your batteries as fully charged and my favorite little green light will blink letting you know that all is right with the world!
Obviously...if your float voltage from your charger is 13.3V or higher you don't need to do anything since 13.2 V is an appropriate "fullly charged" voltage with minimal current flowing.
Make sense??
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CD...my guess is you are not putting in a link10 with your setup. What I posted above are the link10 parameters so when you are ready for your install we will need to take a look at the specific model # you are working with as the latest generation stuff may have more AGM specific parameters since they became popular after the link10 was developed.

Since you are putting things together you should note that NOTHING can go to your battery banks negative post except ONE cable which then runs to the shunt provided by the LINK. Other negative cables and the cable to ground must be run off the oher side of the shunt. Just wanted to save you some battery cable cutting in case you were doing any of that before installing your LINK.
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PB,

THe only initials I should have after my name are : LSNED (Learn Something New Every Day)!!! I am the self-proclaimed NOT know it all and sure don't mind asking!!! Hopefully I don't ask the same questions twice, though!! (smile)

Cam,

Thanks for the insight! I see some cutting in my future, already. Or, I may say FOOGETABOUTIT! Re-running and cutting 4/0 wire is not high on my list of things I want to do again. I am still licking my wounds from the last battle with it (not to mention the many apologies to Our Lord Above for the profanity!!)

- CD

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Last edited by Cruisingdad; 03-13-2007 at 10:53 AM.
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post #9 of 22 Old 03-13-2007
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CD... actually it wouldn't be that hard. Just take everything that is on the negative terminal now and bolt it to the shunt. Then take a short cable and run it to the shunt fro the - terminal.
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Remember though, the shunt has 3/8" lugs, so if you have 5/16" on your negative cables, you'll need to switch them, or, like I did since I only had one to move, drill it out to 3/8 th.

John
Ontario 32 - Aria

Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love.
JCP


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