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post #21 of 26 Old 03-15-2007
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Working solo on the packing materials while in the water...that could have a high pucker factor (HPF) as there's just no easy way to stop things once you are committed. And while there are "safe" ways to do it (i.e. packing wax or putty around the shaft from the outside, which isn't hard to do in warm water) there's still a HPF because you know that if you haven't repacked properly...you've got to keep working till you get it right and tight, or else get hauled ASAP.

But replacing a transducer? Heck, I pull the speed log every time I secure the boat, and reinstall it every time I get on the boat. (Unless I'm being lazy and leave it out.) Fire hose? No way, the process of swapping a transducer for the dummy plug (shipped with it, to replace it at these times) should take all of about 5 seconds, which only feels like ten, and the quart or water that comes in only spurts a foot high.

Threading the cap down, sure, takes a bit longer and needs more care, but once the dummy plug is in...no big deal, there's no water coming in. Too many folks are scared at the prospect, but it really is no big deal. Best to let someone else demonstrate it, hands on, to get rid of the HPF before you do it for the first time.

Of course, both are good reminders why we all have damage control plugs tied on next to every hole in the hull. Right?
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post #22 of 26 Old 03-15-2007
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Good point about the pucker factor with respect to the packing gland.

Transducers aren't bad if you have practice... It also depends on how deep down the transducer is... on one boat I worked on, it was about three feet below the surface...and the water did jet up about two feet... and a good bit more than a quart came in. That was a bigger powerboat though...


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post #23 of 26 Old 03-15-2007
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Sounds like we need to quantify the PF. Let's say a PF of 5 is "neutral", 4 and below would be really relaxed with no worries. A PF of 6 or more, up to 10 would be increasingly, well, puckered.

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post #24 of 26 Old 03-17-2007
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Clarification please. If the stuffing box is dripping, the drip would be coming from around the nut and thread area, or are you referring to the clamps and the actual "box" area? Mine appears to drip a little too, but higher up on the shaft by the nut and thread, I think. Don't quote me on that. I can take a Mustang engine apart and put it back together, but all this extra sea water engine stuff is new to me.

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post #25 of 26 Old 03-17-2007
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I agree with Hellosailor.
I also often take out the speed log to clean it.
This is one of the (few) advantages of a very shallow bilge of Benneteau 423. The sounder is less than a feet under the surface, so the preasure is really low and not like a fire hose. It is an easy accesible place - remove one floor panel in front cabin. Easy to do replacement - one plastic out, another in -finished in seconds.
I would not undertake the work with the gland - too complicated and in most boats not an easy to reach place. Not to mention that if it all fails for the sounder case you can easy use a wooden plug. Not so easy with the shaft...
my "HPF" rating for the speed removal -7 the first time, 5 the second and 2 to 3 every other time.

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post #26 of 26 Old 03-17-2007
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I've done this many times on my Penn Yan and in the water. Do it on the hard if its your first time. If you find it easy, then its your choise from there. I recommend you get a dental pic or the pic tool they sell for getting the stuffing out. Remember, one circle of packing at a time and stager the joints. Do not install in a continuous wrap. There are also inexpensive wrenches for the large nuts. You need 2 wrenches, one for the nut and one for the stationary assembly. If you don't hold the assembly with a wrench, you'll break the hose or worse. Do not use a plumbers wrench, it will round off the brass nut edges. Count how many rings you took out and make sure you have the right size packing befor you start. Yes, there are many diameters. Its also made in the standard wax or more expensive teflon. Make sure you only have it hand tight to start and let it run in awhile. Then tighten until you get the proper drip for cooling while running. If too tight, you will burn the packing and ruin the shaft. Feel the nut after running for temp. Here is a link for a goot step by step. One of the best things i did was replace the assembly with a dripless P.S.S. dripless packing years ago. No more water and works great.


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