Plastic Lumber Cabin Sole - Page 2 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #11  
Old 03-16-2007
jmcpeak's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Gurnee, IL
Posts: 9
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
jmcpeak is on a distinguished road
Send a message via MSN to jmcpeak
According to Derek at plasteak, I would need stringers every 12". If there isn't a fiberglass stringer I could make one out of the plastic lumber - should not be a problem. I like the idea of having "planks" instead of plywood.

If I don't make it out of plastic wood I'd go with t&g oak or maybe bamboo planks - "dipped" in epoxy. Any suggestions on what epoxy sealer to use? They all seem kinda expensive.
__________________
Jason and Sheila McPeak
Reef Point Marina, Racine, WI
s/v Irish Rover - 1981 36 RH
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #12  
Old 03-16-2007
donrr1's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Middle River, Md
Posts: 180
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
donrr1 is on a distinguished road
Whatever is on sale is the best.

Don
__________________
I love being on an Even Keel WTF are YOU lookin at?????
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #13  
Old 03-16-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,291
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
The problem with installing stringers every 12" is the additional weight and work of doing the installation properly. Also, the stringers will need to have holes drilled in them to allow water to flow through the bilge properly.

Seems like an awful lot of work for not a whole lot difference.
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #14  
Old 03-16-2007
Here .. Pull this
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,031
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Sailormann will become famous soon enough
You could try using engineered hardwood flooring - comes in planks - tongue and groove - real wood, should be thick enough and strong enough...just sel it really well. I know epoxy is expensive - but everything to do with boats is expensive...it's a filthy communist plot of some kind...but that's for another thread...

I had the bright idea of using a "composite decking" plank on a friend's trailer - he had wooden bunks that he wanted to replace, and I thought that the stuff would be ideal as it didn't rot.

Our first issue was realising that the things were hollow, so we had to put blocks in to handle the compression where we screwed the planks to the trailer supports. Then we wanted to countersink the screws and fill the holes so that the hull wouldn't get scratched. We ended up having to use Bondo to do it as nothing else would adhere to the decking planks.

The planks wouldn't flex enough for us to be able to secure them to the center bunk support, so my friend, who is not knowing for being particular, says that's fine, the weight of the boat will bend them and provide a little suspension as well...

After spending twice as long as we should have, we finally have the new plastic bunks on the trailer, about six inches higher than they should have been in the middle. We back the trailer up to the water, pull the boat on to it and just as we're pulling it out of the water we hear two dull cracking sounds, the plans have broken, and the boat is supported fore and aft with nothing in the center...
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #15  
Old 03-16-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,291
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
Yeah, that would be my worry with the PlasTeak stuff... that it would end up cracking if it isn't properly supported. Sometimes caveman materials are good for a reason...
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #16  
Old 03-16-2007
paulk's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: CT/ Long Island Sound
Posts: 2,534
Thanks: 4
Thanked 20 Times in 19 Posts
Rep Power: 15
paulk is on a distinguished road
Wood plank soles in materials other than teak are a problem because they shrink, swell, and warp. (Teak doesn't tend to do this. That's why it's so expensive and that's why they use it for cabin soles.) If you're planning to cover it with some sort of phoney plastic stuff anyway, use plywood underneath. (Just seal it to keep it from swelling and delaminating.) If you go to 1" plywood, you might be able to go 3' without supports. The plies at right angles tend to keep it from warping or changing shape or size too much. Some of the traction problems with the wet plastic surface might be solved with a coat of sanded varnish. This gives you another upkeep item every few seasons... All in all, that $300 sheet of teak & holly ply starts to look like a bargain after a while. Especially if your time is worth more than $2.39/hr., because as mentioned above, the other "solutions" will need re-doing sooner, rather than later.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #17  
Old 03-17-2007
hellosailor's Avatar
Plausible Deniability
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,710
Thanks: 2
Thanked 93 Times in 91 Posts
Rep Power: 10
hellosailor has a spectacular aura about hellosailor has a spectacular aura about
Ipe (also called bubinga or ironwood but those names are used for several products) is commonly available in 1x5's for decking. Very similar to teak at 1/4 or less of the price.

Incidentally, there are special "decking screws" used now for real decking lumber, that are designed to snap off below the surface so there is nothing protruding and nothing needs recessing or filling. Of course, that's decking screws, designed to hold wood or plastic down to more wood or plastic. (And if you need to back them out...you can't.)
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #18  
Old 03-17-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,291
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
The only place on a boat I'd use those decking screws is to make a cockpit grate...
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #19  
Old 03-18-2007
deckhanddave's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 93
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
deckhanddave is on a distinguished road
I second the use of the Ipe, however it is NOT Bubinga. Bubinga is a rosewood and is about 3 times more expensive. Not to mention it doesn't have the same weather reistence. I also looked at the thin veneered teak and holly and yes, it does seem like a good deal until you see how thin the veneers are. "Premium" grade is only 2mm... standard is a measly 1mm... This means that if there is any sort of flaw in the glue layer it will peel off like wet paper or if you want to sand out a damaged section, you really can't. If you have some time instead of money you might want to try teak flooring. Now that I about, has anyone ever hear of people leaving the spaces between the wood so that water can go into the bilge quicker? It would be like having a floor thats also a seive. Instead of backing your teak boards you'd just attach them straight to the stringers. Any thoughts
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #20  
Old 03-18-2007
hellosailor's Avatar
Plausible Deniability
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,710
Thanks: 2
Thanked 93 Times in 91 Posts
Rep Power: 10
hellosailor has a spectacular aura about hellosailor has a spectacular aura about
Dave, thank you! I don't know why I said Bubinga, I'm going to swear I never said it and Jihadists changed my post. (That's my story and I'm sticking to it.)

Sure would make a *pretty* floor while it lasted though.

Installing parallel slats (there's a proper nautical word for them that I just can't think of right now) over stringers is an old tradition for overheads and the sides of the hull, but we all know that if you installed it on the floor, EVERYTHING would slip into the slats and crawl into the bilge. Except of course the ladies in stiletto heels trying to make their way forward, and once their heels got caught they'd be angry ladies belowdecks--not a good thing.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Z-Spar Flagship Varnish and Ultimate Cabin Sole 1970Columbia34 Gear & Maintenance 9 01-25-2007 02:37 PM
cetal for a cabin sole obiec Gear & Maintenance 1 03-18-2004 03:22 AM
Cabin sole drynoc Gear & Maintenance 5 12-16-2003 02:36 PM
A Renewed Cabin Sole Sue & Larry Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 11-23-2001 07:00 PM
Refurbishing Cabin Sole d14carter Gear & Maintenance 3 07-19-2001 08:11 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:39 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.