mooring bouys - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 15 Old 01-08-2009
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Smile Re: Mooring Ball Installation - Kaneohe, Oahu

Hi Ray,
Thanks so much for your response, its amazing how little information there is about boating here in Hawaii even though there is a fairly large boating community. I'll have to do some diving/swimming to figure out the other moorings. The harbormaster didn't have a clue as to what the other boats had as moorings even though he inspected them. I'll check into the Helix system but will probably have to have it shipped since "officially" there are no mooring experts in Hawaii.

Thanks again!

Limon
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post #12 of 15 Old 01-08-2009
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Hi Ray,
Thanks so much for your response, its amazing how little information there is about boating here in Hawaii even though there is a fairly large boating community. I'll have to do some diving/swimming to figure out the other moorings. The harbormaster didn't have a clue as to what the other boats had as moorings even though he inspected them. I'll check into the Helix system but will probably have to have it shipped since "officially" there are no mooring experts in Hawaii.

Thanks again!

Limon
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post #13 of 15 Old 01-08-2009
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Here's a decent article right here on Sailnet:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...g-systems.html

Ray
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1983 Fraser 41
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Boating for over 25 years, some of them successfully.
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post #14 of 15 Old 01-08-2009
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One of the important functions of a mooring ball is to support the mooring rode. If the rode is nylon line you could probably use a bleach bottle. If it's 1/2" chain and the water's 80 feet deep you'll need a good sized ball to keep the mooring on the surface. Two other important considerations are the "shock absorber" role of the ball when the rode is pulled tight (energy is absorbed when the ball is forced under water) and visibility (you've got to find it at night).
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post #15 of 15 Old 01-12-2009
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Be aware that a 45' trimaran is going to have considerably more windage than a 45' monohull, and as such will need to have a larger ground tackle/mooring setup to compensate for that fact.

I wouldn't go by what other people have used, since most people I have seen go undersized with their mooring gear, and that's why boats break free during storms.

Maine Sail had a good post on mooring systems earlier, and referenced Hamilton Marine's info on it... I'll quote it here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
#1 Big heavy chain gives good caternary effect and prevents shock loading.

#2 Moorings are usually designed at a 2:1 or 3:1 max scope so this means heavy chain is a must if you want any caternary and protection from shock loading.

#3 Chain wears where the links meet. Anchors are not constant duty but moorings are. Moorings are exposed to wear & link degradation 24/7 365.

#4 The biggest chain, or wire diameter, you can buy will last you the longest.

#5 Galvanized chain adds no real long term benefit as the link wear chews through it rather quickly anyway so self colored chain is fine.

#6 Long link mooing chain is a good option because shackle fit better through it.

#7 You should have a top chain and a bottom chain. the top chain will be lighter than the bottom chain. A good rule of thumb is that the bottom or really heavy chain be 1.5 times max water depth. You will replace the top chain every three to four years depending on your location but bottom chain can last as long as 7-10 if big enough..


Feel free to watch this video and you'll see the types of mooring conditions boats in Maine can deal with in the winter and during Nor' Easters. Most boats up here use the Wayne Hamilton mooring protocol as shown bellow. None of the boats in the video broke free despite a few of them having 15 footers breaking over them. One actually rolled about 80 degrees and popped back up but did not break free.
Please ignore my video skills..

Enjoy...

Why Not to Cut Corners On Your Mooring System (LINK)


Photo Courtesy of Hamilton Marine (LINK)



This is my bottom chain for a 36 footer..

Sailingdog

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