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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2007
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Wait till it warms up...

Wait for the water to warm up and sail over to a shallow beach area and have someone hold a toilet plunger over the thru hull. Change the valve from a gate to a ball and use a lil' bit of pipe dope or teflon tape to seal the threads. I too exercise my thru hulls regularly.

Fair Winds,

Bill
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boasun
I know the exotic material masts and booms may not leaned to such repairs, but the Extruded aluminum masts & booms should be be handlely preped for these repairs far from the expensive boatyards.
On the contraire..my friend...you can actually repair that...and composite material....that was an option..cut where it failed, install an insert, then rewind with new fiber...

However..the thing has been sailing since June...so too new to fail...gimme a new one...

Besides, with the flapping it shatered a lot, the repair would have been noticeable...the lazy bag kept it together pretty good, and the sail, was a crsuising sail, otherwise would have torn.

I know that the 49ers keep breaking masts and my friends keep fixing them..in fact a bottom section of a 49er mast was going to be used to make a radar post in my stern..but I don't need a radar...
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2007
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When in doubt, pull it out!
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2007
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I wouldn't get too excited about those valves either. If they are not leaking you are fine. Do it at your leisure. it does not appear you have an "inherently unsafe" condition.

Just a note about gate valves and ball valves. Ball valves will leak just the same as gate valves. Where they leak is at the bonnet, in the packing. Most valves have a permanent nylon packing and not traditional packing gland material, found on larger valves. The problem with gate valves is that they do not get exercised often enough. Corrosion, and just plain old schmutz, gets in the bonnet of the valve and binds when you eventually turn it. Gate valves that are opened and closed regularly, and treated gently, will last a very long time. The major cause of failure is schmutz build up followed by forcing the valve handle. Ball valves, to a degree, eliminate the need for regular exercising, although it should still be done to keep the valve turning freely. They do not build up schmutz as much as a gate will.

The proper procedure for closing a gate valve is to close it until the gate just seats, then open it one half turn, and re-close. This will allow any debri under the gate to clear. Close it gently, always. When you reef down on a gate valve you will distort the gate or damage the valve stem. Leaking gate valves are usually leaking due to over-tightening or schmutz build up. Often, this can be alleviated by working the valve open and closed repeatedly. Remember also, not to force the valve when opening it. The gate valve delivers full flow at 25% of opening, so when you open it you want to open just until you feel a slight resistence. Cranking 'too open' can damage the stem as well.

Both ball valves and gate valves can leak from the packing nut. In fact, that is the most common area for them to leak externally. On the gate valve you should open it partially and tighten the packing nut, just under the handle, gently with a crescent wrench until it just stops leaking. Do not tighten further. The ball valve will leak from the same area. You must remove the handle to tighten the packing on it. It is not uncommon for them to leak there brand new from the factory. After the handle and flat washer are removed, you will see a bushing which is the packing gland, and you can tighten it gently. Over tightening the packing on either type valve is a receipe for early valve failure. It is not uncommon for either type to leak a little from the packing after you have exercised them. This is due to the fact that you are moving a valve that is not moved alot normally. Just tweak the gland a touch tighter.
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2007
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Sailaway- Is schmutz the technical term???
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2007
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No, but it is publishable!
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Old 04-08-2007
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The problem with gate valves that are normally opened is that the seals are exposed to collect schmutz and so that there's a high probability of them not sealing properly when closed. On ball valves, the seals remain in contact with the valve in both the fully opened and the fully closed position, so the chances of them leaking when closed are much smaller.
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  #28  
Old 04-08-2007
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Also, the seals wipe across the ball, as it is turned, getting the schmutz off the valve and out of the way... on the gate valve, the bottom edge of the gate can have all the schmutz in the world on it...and it won't do anything about it until it crushes it into the valve seat.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

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  #29  
Old 04-08-2007
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And, my little Boston Terrier, that is why I described the proper technique for closing them!(G)
Ball valves are superior, but I don't think we want to propagate the idea that gate valves are, defacto, unseaworthy and MUST be removed.
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Old 04-09-2007
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I removed mine when I looked closely and realized they were garden-hose standard. I've replaced one (the starboard cockpit scupper) in the water and it was a bit nerve-wracking. A couple of years later, the head freshwater intake developed a crack in it providentially right at the waterline (more a drip than a squirt) and I sealed it with plumber's tape and motored across the harbour to get hauled in slings. A friend and I replaced the whole valve in 45 minutes. I left it closed (and plugged!) on the trip back and modified the hoses and T-fittings (that's also the sink drain) later that day by myself.

If you intend on just doing three thru-hulls and have a helper, you can book a lift out in slings for a weekday afternoon after launch, but if you want to tend to the rudder as well, dissembling that can, as I've seen on other people's boats, open a largish can of worms. So if you are doing thru-hulls and rudder, put her in the cradle and take your time to do it right if you have to reglass a rudder stock tube or find a corroded stock that means welding or splitting the rudder or something equally time-consuming and nasty. Odds are it's just a worn Delrin bushing or something, but if you are on the cradle, you are free to confront whatever you uncover without feeling pressured.

Last edited by Valiente; 04-09-2007 at 12:10 AM.
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