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post #11 of 18 Old 04-10-2007
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Stout...I would favor the flexible bag option...below the water line. Nothing is ideal...but sooner or later a joker valve will need to be changed...by you...and an above the waterline tank would make that worthy of a U-tube video! (G)
By the way...try over at sailboatowners.com forums. Peggy Hall there is probably THE most knowledgeable person around about head systems as she was the "Head Mistress" at Raritan for many years. She will give good advice and probably will give you good sources for minimizing the stench in your installation.
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-10-2007
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Another option would be to install an in-line mascerator pump, between the forward head and higher holding tank. I believe the mechanism would prevent a backflow of waste into the head and use less water as well.

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post #13 of 18 Old 04-10-2007
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Cam-

Peggy Hall advises against flexible bladder tanks IIRC.

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post #14 of 18 Old 04-10-2007 Thread Starter
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Talking Good Idea!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueBlue
Another option would be to install an in-line mascerator pump, between the forward head and higher holding tank. I believe the mechanism would prevent a backflow of waste into the head and use less water as well.
Hum...that certainly sounds like a promising idea!!

Can anyone think of problems associated with a mascerator pump in this application.

I can easily hook it up to my windlass batt that stays fully charged via my combiner (sorry.. I couldn't resist)

Roger
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-10-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
Roger-

Part of the reason flexible bladder tanks are much worse, odor-wise, than fixed tanks is that they generally don't have any sort of vent installed in them... and they tend to produce more anaerobic, bad-smelling, bacteria than a fixed tank that is properly ventilated.
Sorry, but the above is not true. Flexible bladder tanks most certainly do have vents installed in them. Nauta makes a bladder in particular meant for either diesel or as a holding tank. It has an extra liner compared to regular bladders and also a 5/8 inch vent line. My boat has had a bladder holding tank installed as original equipment (it's finally leaking) that I am about to replace, probably with another bladder because of space limitations. The secret with all holding tanks is to keep them pumped out and flushed with fresh water to the maximum extent possible.

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-11-2007 Thread Starter
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Thanks to TrueBlue for the macerator idea. I've been doing research to determine if the pump will prevent backflow into the head. I have not been able to find a schematic of a pump, but I did find the following on one manufactures site.

Macerator Pumps are designed to empty your holding tanks when fitted onto the plumbing in both recreational vehicles and boats. The function of the pump is to suction the solids and liquids from the lines connected to the holding tanks and grind the effluent with the rotating cutter head down to a small particle size for simple discharge of the waste. Eliminating gravity as a method to empty the tanks allows the user to lift the waste to a convenient receptacle either above or below the pump elevation

This is the approach we will probably take since we have multiple places to install a larger tank at a higher elevation. In addition to the pump, I plan to install a check valve @ the pumps discharge point.

Thanks for the suggestions from everyone!!

Roger
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-11-2007
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Um, a check valve in a line that will be pumping "mud". I'm not sure I'd want one of those myself, because I know exactly who would have to clean it out when it jammed.
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-11-2007
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HS... I don't have to clean the line... and it is better than a hose full of crap discharging out the head... I would use the ball valve rather than the check-valve...if I were to do this.

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