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post #11 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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2k is STILL cheap. regardless of whatever else they are doing.

We are not primarily on earth to see through one another, but to see one another through

Some people are like slinkies: not really good for anything... but you can't help laughing when you push them down the stairs
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post #12 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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What boat is this? And, is there any sign of damage or deformation aft of the keel, or arond the keel bolts?

If you hull was built (as some are) in halves that are joined afterwards, this could be the centerline joint opening up as the boat flexed over the keel, or just a cosmetic top layer moving. So some "optimistic caution" is called for.
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post #13 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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We needs pictures!
I think from your description the yard might be right about hull flexing. Where is the mast foot support in relation to the crack - just behind it?
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post #14 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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Just removing the gelcoat over the crack is an easy job. I had this done on one of my previous boats over the entire keel-hull joint. Hired a guy that does "bottom peeling" and he used the peeler machine (basically an electric plane), took him less than an hour for the entire seam and i paid accordingly. So, I think uncovering a 6" crack should be pretty cheap.
Ditto for covering it up if there is no problem - some epoxy with silica filler and a few hours of your time is all that is needed.
By doing this, you will be able to find out what the problem really is. Without that you are just speculating. In my experience what looks "bad" from the outside could easily turn inconsequential and, conversely, something that looks small and insignificant could be a sign of a serious problem.
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post #15 of 33 Old 04-24-2007 Thread Starter
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This is a 1981 Bob Perry Cheoy Lee. The mast is keel-stepped. The crack is not actually in the keel. It is in the hull just forward of the keel, directly in the center. (Again, pictures to follow in bit! ) I don't see any keel bolts. How do they attach a keel like this? Is it just one continuous piece, formed seamlessly with the hull? Or, do they still use bolts and the bolts are just glassed over? Sorry, my ignorance is showing.

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post #16 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardiacpaul
2k is STILL cheap. regardless of whatever else they are doing.
Not if this isn't fixing the underlying problem that caused the crack.

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post #17 of 33 Old 04-24-2007 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
Not if this isn't fixing the underlying problem that caused the crack.

We're thinking that my grounding the boat caused the crack. In that case, no amount of money would be enough to fix the problem.
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post #18 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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Yes, but did the grounding cause some of the hull-keel bolts to fail? Did it cause the hull to flex and break stringers? That's the question. If either of those happened, you can fix the crack, but then the motion of the boat will cause the hull to crack again, since the underlying structure of the hull is damaged. You need to know if that is the case or not.

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post #19 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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pictures... and get a pro to gander at it.

We are not primarily on earth to see through one another, but to see one another through

Some people are like slinkies: not really good for anything... but you can't help laughing when you push them down the stairs
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post #20 of 33 Old 04-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr438234606
We're thinking that my grounding the boat caused the crack. In that case, no amount of money would be enough to fix the problem.
Sure, you could always buy something that grounding doesn't bother, like one of these:


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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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