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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
jr438234606 jr438234606 is online now
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Pictures

Ok, here we go. Attached are the pictures. I stuck a screw driver in the crack for size/placement reference. The other pictures of the keel are to show that there is no apparent ( ) damage around the keel. The portion of the hull material that is hanging down on each side of the crack is about 1/4 " thick. I could not see any hair-line crack inside the larger crack. The yard is not suggesting that we remove the keel, or even do destructive inspection around it. They say that all they need to do is remove the loose material, grind around it, build it back up, fair it and paint it. If that's the case, I could do that myself!

I've inspected inside the hull where the crack is and I can't see any evidence of damage. I've been all under the cabin sole and have inspected the stringers and bulkheads. None show any signs of the hull flexing. The mast is stepped well aft of where the crack is. It seems to me that if the keel was twisting around enough to cause a crack of this type, there would also be evidence around the keel in other places.

Anyway, here are the pics. The bottom has already been sanded and is ready for paint. Comments welcome:
















Last edited by jr438234606 : 04-24-2007 at 09:17 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
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And given their $2k estimate if you have the time and skills you probably should do it yourself...
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr438234606
We're thinking that my grounding the boat caused the crack. In that case, no amount of money would be enough to fix the problem.
Oops, never mind my post - I see your pictures and this looks like a different issue.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
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Looks like the laminate tore or delaminated.... maybe it was a dry void in the laminate. Definitely want a surveyor to look at it IMHO.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
ntheyer ntheyer is offline
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I would definitely fix that. I would be worried about water ingress into the laminate and eventually causing more problems. Personally, I would do it myself by grinding it down until I was at solid material and then building back up, sealing and fairing. Might as well do it now versus getting the boat wet and then discovering that water is getting into the glass. Do it now before they finish the bottom job. I'll do it myself and give you a deal... only $1900
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2007
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2007
Sailormann Sailormann is offline
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Well - you have a problem, but it's not insurmountable. First of all - is this a cored hull ? If yes - you have a very big problem. Le's be optimistic and go with solid hull.

Before you call anyone - surveyor, boatyard, witchdoctor - you would do well to get rid of the loose piece. The reason I say this is that nobody is going to be able to assess the damage without seeing inside it. If you hire an extremely well-equipped surveyor, he may be able to show up with one of those density meters, and tell you how far the damage goes - but he still won't commit to anything without pulling apart. You might as well spend the two hours and do it yourself as opposed to paying someone else for two hours.

Rather than taking a grinder to it right away, I would suggest you use a spiral saw with a flexible cable attachment - you can buy a Mastercraft one at Sears. You should have one of these anyway - it's like a Dremel with real balls. Use one of the spiral saw bits to cut away the piece that has come loose. Don't go any further.

Now take a really strong flashlight and look long and hard. You are trying to determine if the layers of the hull have separated. Separated, or delaminated, means that there is space between the layers of the roving - not that the gelcoat has come loose. (If there is no roving attached to the piece that is loose, the problem is not a major one.)

Can you stick a screwdriver in between the layers ? Be gentle - don't try to pry them apart - just see if there is any wiggle room at all.

If it has come apart, take a sounding hammer (if you are so equipped) or the handle of a screwdriver and start tapping to see if you can determine how extensive the delamination is. Use masking tape or something to mark the area.

At this point, try to get as much information as you can regarding the structure of the boat - ie: stringers? grid? solid ? hollow? AND THEN call a surveyor. Explain what you have found, and the ask him if he concurs, and - based on the information you have regarding the method of the boat's construction - what other areas should be checked.

If there is actual delamination - I would think that an estimate from the yard for 2K is very low to fix the problem. As you mentioned in an earlier post that they feel it is only gelcoat coming loose, then you should certainly be able to fix it yourself. You will need to sand or grind away an area about 3 to 4 inches around the perimeter of the hole, at a very shallow angle, give the hull time to dry out (VERY, VERY, VERY IMPORTANT) and then use a thickened epoxy or polyester resin to fill.

When you are filling, it is better to use several thin layers rather than one thick one. This makes it easier to avoid air bubbles/voids and gives a better cure.

If this is a cored hull, and if there is delamination - I think you need to see if you can get a second mortgage on your house

Good Luck - let us know what happens!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2007
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Looking at the photos my guess is it’s a result of a bad repair job
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2007
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The problem is that there is a screw driver stuck in the hull!
No actually it looks like delamination of several layers of glass. Surveyor says.....
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2007
jr438234606 jr438234606 is online now
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Thanks all. It's not a cored hull, it's solid. The damage is more than just gelcoat-thick. I can see roving in the piece that's hanging off, but not on the surface of the hull. I'm starting to lean towards the theory that it's an old repair job pushed to the breaking point.

So long as the keel isn't about to fall off, I think I can tackle this job myself over a weekend and save a little dough. I'll get my surveyor to back me up on this of course. I'll post photos of the outcome.

Last edited by jr438234606 : 04-25-2007 at 05:07 AM.
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