Connecting raw water cooling to water heater - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
SD-
"BTW, the hot water on some boats comes out at well over temperatures that can scald almost instantly..."
Even on boats, there's little reason not to install a $10 anti-scald valve directly on the plumbing. Sink, showerhead, whatever. (I'd say the extra weight slows you down if you're racing, but racers don't need hot water systems anyway, right?)
The racer wouldn't even have a hot water heater on-board... Yes, anti-scald devices are a good thing... wasn't my boat, wasn't going to be my problem, until someone wasn't paying attention...
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2007
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Isn't a 2gm pretty small, like, 2 cyl 15hp. It also can push alot of water. I guess my question would be how much time do you have to run the engine to reach a worthwhile temp?
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That was one of my concerns, however, as I have been advised, if I am getting the water off of the hot side of engine, only water that passes through the engine, would go to the hot water heater. Any colder water that bypasses the engine, will go directly into the exhaust. As advised, if the diesel runs quite hot normally, I should, hopefully, be able to get enough heat.
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Old 04-28-2007
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Northeaster, I have a Yanmar 3GMD raw water cooled...I did not install a water heater because......the heater would have been in a position higher than the engine causing the raw water after the engine is shut down to flow back through the exhaust elbow filling the water lift muffler then flooding the engine. That was my concern.
Bill,
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I had not thought about that concern. However, the previous owner did have a water heater hooked up, in a position higher than the motor. Re: the muffler - I am new to this, although i am fairly mechanical - lots of auto motor work growing up - My exhaust comes directly out of the engine, where the water hose then joins it, and then goes through a rubber - baffled silencer, and out a seacock on the underside of the boat - not the transom. I should note that there is a high loop, before it exits through the seacock. Is this setup normal - as I don't seem to have a water-lift muffler - Is that only when the exhaust exits the transom?

Does this make mine more or less prone to back-flooding from the water heater?
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Old 04-28-2007
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Northeaster, Here is a pretty good article from Good Old Boat on exhaust systems.. Good Old Boat: Cool and Quiet and Trouble Free by Jerry Powlas and Dave Gerr
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Excellent article! Thanks very much, it expalined alot of the basics. I definitely have the gooseneck version, exhaust system, as opposed to a water muffler. With respect to the possibility of the water heater flooding the engine, do you think the smaller hose diameter approx 3/4" - 1" (ie less volume of water) would be less of a concern, than backflooding from the main 1 1/2" (or more)exhaust hose? I am not sure how much water the internal heat/exchanger piping of the hot water heater would hold.
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Had a 2nd look at a picture of my engine area (will not be back at the boat for 2 weeks). I do not think that the water heater hose will be higher than the hot water hose, coming off of the engine, so I should be OK. I can probably lower the water heater a couple more inches as well, as the old one was sitting on a "stand" of 2x4s, that span the gap over the prop shaft/ back bilge area. I can probably use a thinner material, than 2x4s, to make this water heater stand a bit lower.
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Northeaster-

Use something like Starboard, that won't rot if it gets wet.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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