Oh Oh What do I do now?

Melluc · #1 (**permalink**) 05-02-2007

Hi, I have a client whose Teak decks are in my care. We have applied Watco Teak Oil as he requested several times and he has been pleased---he likes the natural look. While I was working on another area (very large property---not a boat) today, my assistant applied the oil to the shady area and a small sunny area---about 200sf. When I checked the job I was sorry to see that too much oil had been applied. I tried to wipe some of it off with a cloth but everywhere I put my foot or hand to brace myself left a mark in the finish----ugh. It was the end of a long day and we had to go----will go back tomorrow for damage control.

So my question is that if the oil has set up----as I am afraid it has in some areas----and is too glossy----what can I do to make it look natural again. I don't want my client to be happy as in the past. HELP Please.

Thanks,
Mel

Melluc · #2 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

I don't understand your post. Was that a sarcastic remark? This is NOT about the money----this is about pride in my work and caring for people who are entrusting me with their precious possessions. I would be VERY sad to let them down-----and no I wouldn't accept money if the job wasn't done with excellence. As it is to fix the problem I won't make any money on this job.

I just want it to look beutiful as it did before.

Thank you,
Mel

jnanjorl · #3 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

I would try some thinner or mineral spirits on a small out of the way patch first good luck ..........jeff

Melluc · #4 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Unlike some jaded folks---you are very kind to respond & contribute to this challenge.

I have spent the last hour researching and found that ---on a test spot first of course---acetone and brass wool or 3m artificial steel wool has worked for other experienced boat finishers. I actually learned a lot; kinda takes the sting out of this situation. I have done many kinds of detailing in my entreprenurial adventures but Teak is a new one for me.

I love to see people smile----I want to see that from my client/friends when they return and see thier beutiful decks!

Thank you again!

Mel

camaraderie · #5 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Good luck on it Mel...you have pride in your work and that is rare enough these days! Whatever you do...stay away from steel wool...the brass wool is a good choice.

cardiacpaul · #6 (**permalink**) 05-03-2007

Melluc,
Slow down a bit... depending on the weather, when you go back to the boat, I think you'll find that its evened out considerably.

Melluc · #7 (**permalink**) 05-05-2007

Dear Cam & Card, Thanks for your advise and encouragement. Yes I did find out later that night to use BRASS never steel wool. . . also that paint thinner is "cooler" temp than acetone, so to start with that.

Yes, Card, it had evened out much better-----but, it was sticky, like dry sticky, it was not wet when we walked on it. The part that had been applied earlier in the day looks great. So tomorrow we will go to work on it-----I'm going to take it a step at a time----however we may have to do the whole thing over---I just want it goreous by Monday.

Thanks guys, you have been great---just knowing you are rooting for me. I'll let you know how it goes.

Best weather and beautiful seas to you,
Enjoy, life is short.
Mel
P.S. Cam your boat is GORGEOUS! That is your boat, right? whew!

sailingdog · #8 (**permalink**) 05-05-2007

Using steel wool on a boat leads to tiny particles of steel dropping off and that leads to rust "pox" where each little particle eventually leaves a small rust stain or spot. Bronze wool or copper wool is best for use on a boat... lacking that, use Nylon scrubbing pads, like ScotchBrite ones.

Melluc · #9 (**permalink**) 05-05-2007

. . . the scotchbrite---great! Thank you for the tip Sailingdog! I love learning new things.

Happy sailing to you---everyday.
Mel

Quickstep192 · #10 (**permalink**) 05-05-2007

I would steer away from using Acetone - too strong. It could dissolve the caulk between the teak on the deck and damage fiberglass if it gets on it. Naptha (available at paint stores) is like hi-octane mineral spirits. Also, one thing that dissolves Watco is more Watco. Apply it liberally, but don't let it dry this time. Give it a little time to re-dissolve the finish below, then wipe off the excess just as you would have done originally and you're back to square 1.