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post #11 of 17 Old 05-08-2007
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I agree that the Starboard is not a very good material for a lot of purposes. For some things, like cupholders, stern seats, and such... it seems to work well.

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post #12 of 17 Old 05-10-2007
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I just installed 4 new thru-hulls using Starboard as backing blocks. Sounds like I got some bad advise. My seacocks are Marelon and the tabs with the screw holes are pretty wide. I cut my blocks a little larger than the required footprint of the tabs/flange. I roughed up the Starboard with some 80-grit sandpaper and bedding it with 5200 on both sides.

All of the parts of the hull where I installed valves are very flat. In fact, none of the old seacocks had backing plates and the flanges weren't screwed down to anything.

Everything feels really secure. Should I be panicking? I sure don't have the time to redo the job before it goes in next week.

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post #13 of 17 Old 05-10-2007
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Marine ply and epoxy is still a better bet, in my view, because you can "dry fit" various pieces and the ply will flex a bit.

Another option is finding an offcut of teak for a few bucks and sealing that.
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post #14 of 17 Old 05-10-2007
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eric-

If you through bolted, then it probably doesn't matter much... if you used screws to hold the seacock to the starboard, then it might matter... I don't know how well 5200 sticks to Starboard... If the new through hulls are replacing old ones, they may not have had backing plates and may have a flat surface because the manufacturer designed in a solid fiberglass (not cored) section for the through-hulls specifically at that point in the hull. The interior on most hulls is curved, and from your description, it sounds like that may be the what the maker did.

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post #15 of 17 Old 05-10-2007
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Should I be panicking? I sure don't have the time to redo the job before it goes in next week.
If you used enough 5200 to seal everything I don't think you have to worry unless you have screwed something into the Starboard. It will definitely not hold, but if you are through-bolting, you'll be fine. It is pretty solid - would stand up well to compression, in fact, the flexibility might even work in your favour...
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post #16 of 17 Old 05-11-2007
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I did screw the flane to the starboard with wood screws. I'm not too worried about that though. The old seacocks were secured only by the flange on the thru-hull (no screws at all). I feel like the screws are only preventing it from rotating relative to the hull. I don't think there will be much force perpendicular to the starboard.

If it starts to leak, I'll just have to pull it out I guess. I think I'll be ok for now. Thanks for the responses...

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post #17 of 17 Old 05-11-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailormann
I don't think you have to worry unless you have screwed something into the Starboard. It will definitely not hold, but if you are through-bolting, you'll be fine. It is pretty solid - would stand up well to compression, in fact, the flexibility might even work in your favour...
I'm well aware that hardly anything sticks to starboard which is why everything commercially made from starboard is screwed together. I have been making boxes, whatever holders, etc.... for years and never saw any inability of starboard to hold a screw

Stan
'Christy Leigh'
NC 331
Wickford/Narragansett Bay RI
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