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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 05-20-2007
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I would try and repair the wood using thickened epoxy and then add an aluminum or stainless steel plate over the whole thing and have the bolt go through the plate. Then bolt/screw the plate down. That will spread the load out a lot more than just repairing the wood will.

I just don't know if you've got enough thread left on the rudder stock bolt to do this... conversely, you could thin the wood a bit if you're going to be using a metal plate to spread the load out.... and that would give you the room to fit the plate. YMMV.
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Last edited by sailingdog; 05-20-2007 at 08:37 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-20-2007
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hs, sounds good to me...
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Old 05-20-2007
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There seems to be enough room on the depth of the shaft to add a 1/8 maybe 1/4 inch metal plate to the top of the board. That was my original idea of how to fix it. maybe 24 to 36 inches long.
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Old 06-12-2007
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FreeSail99, how have you make out with this?
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Old 06-12-2007
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I posted some pictures of the problem area which was about 4 to 5 inches from the shaft. So I cut out the top layer of 3/4 plywood. A piece about 8 x 30 inches and screwed and epoxied in a new piece of marine plywood. I then used thicken epoxy with some 6.5 oz fiberglass cloth and covered both layers of the 3/4 plywood. I encapsulated the wood. I also replace the 4 inch plate in the cockpit seat where the leak came from. It was where the emergency rudder would connect to the rudder shaft.

Thanks for asking
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Old 06-12-2007
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rot

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
Freesail-

it would help a lot if you said what kind of boat this is on and if you posted a photo of the part.

An engineered laminated beam may be much stronger, but most aren't designed to be used in wet environments, and if it is, it may delaminate more quickly than the plywood did.
Yep danger there.
AL
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Old 06-13-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaPlaya
Yep danger there.
AL
Did you read what I just wrote in the post before your post ?
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Old 06-13-2007
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I would get a 2" x 4" piece of heavy-wall channel iron, bore an appropriate hole in it, grind it clean, prime it with a couple of coats of Interlux 2000 barrier coat, dig out the rotted wood and fill it with West epoxy and sawdust, install the channel face down secured only with an ample coat of 3M 5200, then paint it all a nice white so you can easily see when the iron starts to rust. The channel should be about 18" to 24" to disperse the load and make max use of the 5200 bonding, but a foot might work as well.

This will give you plenty of time to consider tearing the whole aft section apart and laminating in another full beam. You may never have to.

Hawk
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