Need help with plumbing!!

GotTheNotion · #1 05-14-2007

I'm getting ready to help work on some of the valves on my friends boat. I'm hoping I can get some advice about products to use, and the basics of how these things work.

I want to remove what appears to be lime build-up. Is a product like CLR or Lime-away safe for the gel coat and other surrounding metals? I'd like to just be able to spray the stuff on and not worry about damaging anything. If they're not good, what is?

After the lime is gone I've been told to use a product called Corrosion X to coat the valves so the build up won't happen again (or at least be as bad). Anyone know if this stuff works?

Okay, here's a stupid girl question. I know basically how a trap and on/off valve works on my kitchen sink on land. If the boats in the water and you want to disconnect the the hose attached to the thru-hull, what keeps the outside water from coming in? Should this job be done on the hard?

I've also been advised to use Lanocate to lubricate the ball valves (as per CliffL's stupid newbie question of the day) Thanks again SD. Now, how do you actually do it? After going to West Marine and actually looking at how one works, I would assume you would disconnect the hose and then apply the paste, then move it back and forth. (please keep your brains out of gutters) Is that all there is to it, or am I missing something?

patrickbwells · #2 05-14-2007

While I'm not sure about cleaning away the lime I do no a little about the thru hull fitting. I had to remove and cap one a few weeks ago and was upset that I would have to spend hundreds of dollars to lift the boat. Fortunately that wasn't the case. The pressure of the water coming through the thru hull is only a couple of pounds, you can easily stop and hold it with your hand. In fact you can remove the hose and stuff a rag in the thru hull, this will reduce to the flow to just a dribble. If you are going to cap it, just leave the rag in there. Be sure to use teflon plumbers tape or other appropriate measures to seal the hoses and check it for leaks periodically after the repair.

sailingdog · #3 05-14-2007

I think FSR will get rid of lime build up, as it is a mild acid...but I believe it isn't strong enough to damage the gelcoat... Vinegar should also work fairly well..

since it will attack the lime fairly aggressively, and is also safe, if a bit smelly, for the gelcoat. BTW, I'd go with the vinegar, as it is dirt cheap. Just be sure to rinse the area thouroughly regardless of which you use.

As for the Lanocote. It is much easier to apply from the exterior of the boat, if it is on the hard... a bit more difficult to apply from the interior. What you do is take a blob of it on the end of a wooden applicator and apply it to the ball. Then work the valve, to spread it out. If you're doing this from the outside, it helps to have a drudge/partner/crewmember on the inside of the boat working the thru-hull handle.

If you're doing this with the boat in the water, you have to remove the hose from the inside of the valve...and then apply it...

As Patrick has pointed out... in most cases the amount of force behind the water is not all that great, and easily stopped....

What one friend of mine has done, but I have not tried, is to use a small sponge grabbed with a pair of hemostats to apply the lanocote. It is probably more effective than the stick in applying an even coating of the lubricant. And, if you size the sponge properly you can use it to stop most of the water flow from when you operate the valve handle.

GotTheNotion · #4 05-14-2007

I think attaching a piece of sponge to the eye end of a metal BBQ skewer would probably do it.

What about Corrosion X?

I'm going to look up FSR, is that the actual name or an abbreviation? At least one valve is under the aft bunk...don't know if the vinegar smell would go over well in that area...

sailingdog · #5 05-14-2007

The vinegar smell dissapates rather quickly, especially if you rinse it well... FSR stands for Fiberglass Stain Remover, which is mostly oxalic acid-based IIRC. Don't know squat about corrosion x, but if it is anything like Boeshield T9 or some of the other dry-film anti-corrosion sprays, it should help.

GotTheNotion · #6 05-14-2007

SD,Could I have stumbled onto something you don't know about?

CX is probably the same stuff you mentioned.

Thanks again
GTN

sailingdog · #7 05-14-2007

GTN-

CorrosionX and Boeshield T9 serve the same purpose, but I have used T9 for years... and like it...so see no need to try CorrosionX..

sailaway21 · #8 05-14-2007

CLR will do a good job on lime-I recommend wire brushing first and then apply the CLR with a cheapo paint brush. You did not state the thickness of the buildup. Lime usually will brush off for the most part. If there is a heavy buildup, and upon removal, you find the fittings beneath "wasting" away then you probably have an electrolysis issue.

GotTheNotion · #9 05-15-2007

S21, I have experience with CLR. I used to use it to do my laundry and clean when I rented a place with rusty well water. It did work on the tub/shower with out hurting it, now that I think about it. The valves aren't terrible but I think a metal brush will make the job a lot faster. Thanks

My skewer with sponge trick worked like a charm. I think I'll make a bunch up and sell them at one of those big marine stores for $50.00 each!!!