Replacing SeaCock Gate Valve with Marine Ball Valve - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Cam...

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaraderie
Wood (marine ply or Teak) is fine but once you have it "fitted" well to the hull form then coat it with epoxy to avoid deterioration and then bond it to your hull using 3M 4200 or the equivilent. Note that the screws into the wood are just to keep it from turning. the real strength of the application is from the compression of the screw threads.
Cam the screws on flanged sea cocks are meant to go all the way throught he hull and they are not designed to be "wood screwed" into the backing plate. The idea of a flanged through hull is that you have multiple fastening points including the through hull and the three silicon bronze machine bolts..

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post #12 of 31 Old 05-31-2007 Thread Starter
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Helekai,

I was looking at this apollo fitting

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|813148|319675&id=142110

It is bronze but silver in color. Could you use a standard bronze thru hull fitting that is bronze in color?
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post #13 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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It looks silver but..

The picture makes it look silver but I'm fairly sure it's bronze in color. Always use bronze srews with bronze sea cocks!

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post #14 of 31 Old 05-31-2007 Thread Starter
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Halekai,

The through hull has to be purchased as well. I was looking at mushroom style bronze ones. They have a threading and a nut that threads on. Does the seacock also screw onto the threading of the thru hull? If so are the threads standard?
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post #15 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Countersink the flathead machine screws from the outside of the hull and cover and fair with thickened epoxy. Hopefully your hull is thick enough to do this. Take advantage of being out of the water.
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post #16 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saurav16
Halekai,

The through hull has to be purchased as well. I was looking at mushroom style bronze ones. They have a threading and a nut that threads on. Does the seacock also screw onto the threading of the thru hull? If so are the threads standard?
Yes you need to also buy the thru hull. It threads into the sea **** but you don't need the nut if using with a real sea ****. Depending on your hull thickness you may need to cut the through hull a bit shorter, with a hack saw, or it will bottom out in the sea **** before it's tight. Apply 4200 to the threads after the sea **** has been mounted and beded. Then thread in the through hull from the out side using a liberal amount of 4200 around the mushroom head. It's imperative that you do a dry fit to m ake sure all lines up and fits well before applying 4200... I buy all mine from Hamilton Marine. My new boat is actually on the hard and I'm doing this exact upgrade as we discuss it here. So far I have about $450.00 tied up just in bronze......

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Last edited by Maine Sail; 05-31-2007 at 06:37 PM.
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post #17 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Halekai- Since you are the local expert, can you thread the seacock on over the thruhull nut? When I threaded the ball valve onto the thru hull it threaded on pretty well, but was "stiff". (now I know why) Good thing I'm not a plummer. I'm not sure I have room for the flanged seacock (near motor mount and not much clearance.), if not is there a thread adapter to get to the type of thread on the ball valve.

FYI, it's almost under the engine with exactly zero chance of anything ever rolling, sliding, falling, dropping, or otherwise moving into / onto it.

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post #18 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Halekai...I thought he was talking about the base of the sea-**** AFTER he puts the threaded compression mount thru hull like this:

Followed by something like this.


Actually...I prefer all Marelon fittings as I find them both reliable and less prone to seizing up...and easliy un frozen.
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post #19 of 31 Old 05-31-2007
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Marelon doesn't corrode either.

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post #20 of 31 Old 06-01-2007 Thread Starter
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Where do you guys order these fittings from?
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