Teak Prep--Mysteriously Darkening Wood - SailNet Community

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2007
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Teak Prep--Mysteriously Darkening Wood

So, I'm on day 101 (held hostage) of this fricking varnishing process. Orbital sanding, hand sanding, you name it.

On this perfectionistic kick, I used Ajax (per Don Chase) to bleach one piece of wood lighter...slathered it on, damp, scrubbed, rinsed after :30. Next thing you know, I have dark spots that won't even sand off!

What the hell?!

Anybody have any luck with Ajax, or should I just use Oxyacyic acid.

I swear, this boat is two steps back, for every .5 forward..!

---

Also: I'm pouring the varnish into an empty quart can, clean with a lid, so I can strain it and add thinner. Can this sub pot be used for successive days, or is the "paint can du jour" only good for the day?

presume I seal it.

thanks, guys.
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I had a friend who just re did his teak. He told me if possible remove the teak off the boat. Then sand the teak down to remove wear and clean it. Then put teak oil on followed by your varnish or laquer.

-Spencer
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Varnish is off the boat, taking up about 25% of garage (and 75% of my wife's patience)

Hence, need for speed..!
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Old 06-01-2007
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If the bare fresh bleached teak is in sunlight, what you're probably noting is the sunlight changing the 'hue' (color development) of the wood. Either varnish it as soon as possible after bleaching .... or wait a few days in full sun to let the UV completely affect the change of 'hue'.

I usually bleach (oxalic), let dry, cover with saran wrap and let 'soak' in the sunlight for a few days before varnishing, etc. .... (and then use very diluted 'washes' of aniline dyes, etc. to add color to those few areas/zones that dont 'develop' to the overall color I want.
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thanks, Rich. The Ajax thing may have been a bad call.
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Old 06-01-2007
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Not really. Teak is a 'natural botanic' product. Natural botanics are never ever uniform in structure or chemical composition (zones, etc.). What you experienced could simply be 'natural' chemical reaction in one area and not in the surrounding areas because the chemicals in those 'zones' are a wee bit more or less concentrated, etc. there. If you want 'uniformity', then consider a 'plastic'.

When bleaching, staining, etc. usually it best to 'work up' or 'work down' to the color or hue you want by using diluted solutions of whatever your using. Using diluted agents will make the process take longer but you can stop if something becomes 'adverse' or undesireable. If you use potent chemicals and at 'full strength' sometimes the reaction happen so fast that you dont have time to react to stop, etc. if its not to your desires.

Last edited by RichH; 06-01-2007 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 06-02-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geary126
Varnish is off the boat, taking up about 25% of garage (and 75% of my wife's patience)

Hence, need for speed..!
Pounds his MANLY beer belly!!!!!!!!
Said ADMIRAL should go garden or something............
Opens a MANLY beer as he puts a load in the wash,feeds the critters,looks at weather and decides rain/roofing is a bad idea......
Slinks to ADMIRALS mini-van to do repairs......
M
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Old 06-02-2007
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I don't know what's in it exactly, but that store bought Teak cleaner works extremly well. Personally, I like to just sand the teak a bit, slap some teak oil on it and within the hour go sailing. If you keep up with it, the teak will only require a quick re-oiling once in awhile and then, yep...Go Sailing!
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Old 06-02-2007
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Thanks, guys.

How about storing the strained, mixed (50% varnish + 50% thinner) varnish overnight, for use on Coat #2? Is that a bad call, if I can seal the can?
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Old 06-02-2007
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You can probably get away with it this time, but it's generally best to strain varnish prior to each session.
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