Help with a rigging question please - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 21 Old 06-19-2007 Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Help with a rigging question please

Hi all,
This is my first post on sailnet but have been reading a lonnnnnnngggg time. I finally bought her, 32 bristol and she is beautiful. Except for some old old rigging. Most of it appears to be original equipment. On most of the boat, roller furling, mains, and peripherals I have the wire to rope rigging. I would like to replace this outdated rigging with new. Do I have to go back to wire>rope or can I replace with strictly rope? I was drooling at West marine and noticed that the tensile strength of these new lines is very high is this line an acceptable replacement? As you can probably tell I am a novice so any advice, even hire a pro rigger, would be helpful. If anyone knows of a good website etc anything at this point. Thank you
bristol321 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Just another Moderator
 
Faster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Westminster, BC
Posts: 16,518
Thanks: 104
Thanked 309 Times in 299 Posts
Rep Power: 10
     
Nowadays, from a strength/stretch perspective you can certainly go to all "rope" halyards. The only complication with older rigs is whether or not the sheaves at the masthead will handle the line, which will end up being a larger diameter than the original wire.

Some sheaves (pulleys) are designed to handle rope and/or wire (esp. if the wire/rope transition is spliced) but some are only sized for the wire, so getting a line through may be difficult, and the land of the pulley may not suit the line.

Be sure to get some pre-stretched or low stretch line for this purpose - regular dacron yacht braid really isn't the right stuff - (but will do in a pinch, esp if there's no performance criteria involved. - you'll pay a premium for good line, but it's worth it from a sail setting point of view).

So I guess job one is to find out what the masthead sheave setup looks like and go from there.
Faster is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Banned
 
Rickm505's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 770
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
There isn't a need for wire to rope like there used to be. Many riggers won't install them. The new lines out have less stretch than wire. Roller furler not withstanding, buy a diameter that's comfortable on your hands. Keep in mind you're probably going to have to change out your sheaves if they were designed to handle wire.

Rick in Florida
Rickm505 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
.
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 10,851
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 13
         
Bristol, I like Dyneema. Try it out.
Giulietta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 158
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Rope - meat hooks= happy sailing! No need for wire to rope...just make sure you're using a line, rated as low stretch. I use Vectran and Dyneema.
Sabre66 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Siren 17
 
danjarch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Grapevine TX
Posts: 1,982
Thanks: 1
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
sheaves may be trouble

I just replaced the sheaves in the mast head on my bristol 24. The sheaves were 15/32 with a 1/2 inch bushing, I searched all over and finally had to have them custom made out of stainless. It cost eighty dollars a sheave. You're going to have to bring the mast down to change them. But why do you want to replace the wire halyards. They don't strech over time, and stay tighter on a long voyage. you also don't have to replace as much line when it gets old and rotten
danjarch is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 158
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by danjarch
I just replaced the sheaves in the mast head on my bristol 24. The sheaves were 15/32 with a 1/2 inch bushing, I searched all over and finally had to have them custom made out of stainless. It cost eighty dollars a sheave. You're going to have to bring the mast down to change them. But why do you want to replace the wire halyards. They don't strech over time, and stay tighter on a long voyage. you also don't have to replace as much line when it gets old and rotten
He can use a rope to rope splice to accommodate the sheaves if needed. !/4 " vectran has a breaking strength of 5,000 pounds or more.
h
Sabre66 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 14 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
Are you living under a rock??

Quote:
Originally Posted by danjarch
I just replaced the sheaves in the mast head on my bristol 24. The sheaves were 15/32 with a 1/2 inch bushing, I searched all over and finally had to have them custom made out of stainless. It cost eighty dollars a sheave. You're going to have to bring the mast down to change them. But why do you want to replace the wire halyards. They don't strech over time, and stay tighter on a long voyage. you also don't have to replace as much line when it gets old and rotten
Danjarch-

The new synthetic lines with a dyneema or spectra core have about the same stretch as wire halyards, and are far easier on the hands and present less weight aloft. While what you said might have been true ten years ago, it most certainly isn't true today. Also, the rope portion of old wire-to-rope halyards stretched more than enough to make the use of the wire portion far less effective than all wire halyards would be.

The masthead sheaves will probably need to be replaced if you are going from wire-to-rope halyards, as the sheaves at the top of the mast are probably v-grooved sheave suitable for wire. Rope sheaves have a u-shaped groove.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
.
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 10,851
Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 13
         
I like dyneema...its good
Giulietta is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 21 Old 06-19-2007
Siren 17
 
danjarch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Grapevine TX
Posts: 1,982
Thanks: 1
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
The sheave has a 3\32 groove for the wire rope but the ledges are on a twenty six degree angle, so it would act like vee groove. If you have the same fitting on your halyards that I do, you could try to end for end the new line through. you need to check, the rope to wire end on mine uses a spliced eye thats to big to go between the sheaves and the top bolts, but the working end has a smaller compression fitting that I got to pass though ( I had the jib halyard backwards ), but I got to do this with the mast laying down. If you get it though, I'd recomend you make a habit of checking your halyard for chafing where it sits on the sheaves, if you don't see any after awile you could assume it's not going to be a problem.
danjarch is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Steel Hull and Rigging Question RunawaySkeleton Boat Review and Purchase Forum 11 03-01-2009 09:53 PM
Rigging repair at-sea Lin & Larry Pardey Gear and Maintenance Articles 1 02-16-2008 12:28 PM
Standing Rigging Basics Mark Matthews Racing Articles 0 08-29-2004 08:00 PM
Replacing Your Standing Rigging Mark Matthews Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 12-15-2002 07:00 PM
Another rigging question sailorman_10 Gear & Maintenance 3 05-21-2002 08:40 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome