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post #1 of 7 Old 06-20-2007 Thread Starter
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Another Rigging Question

What is the best way to replace the rigging once you've decided what to replace it with? We are new at this and are trying to do most of the repairs ourselves to have the most knowledge of our boat and her workings.
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-20-2007
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Running rigging or standing rigging... approaches to doing the first are very different from the second.

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post #3 of 7 Old 06-21-2007 Thread Starter
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Both. The shrouds have meat hooks and so does the main wire-rope halyard.
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-21-2007
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I re-rigged ou boat this winter and did all the standing rigging myself. I had each shroud made about a foot and a half longer than required with a swaged terminal at the masthead/spreader fitting and no fitting on the other end. Then I ordered Hayn Hi-Mod terminals and did all the measuring, cutting and terminal fitting myself. The process was easier than I expected and I wouldn't hesitate to do it the same way again.

As far as running rigging, I replaced everything with all line and did the splicing myself as well.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhaley
I re-rigged ou boat this winter and did all the standing rigging myself. I had each shroud made about a foot and a half longer than required with a swaged terminal at the masthead/spreader fitting and no fitting on the other end. Then I ordered Hayn Hi-Mod terminals and did all the measuring, cutting and terminal fitting myself. The process was easier than I expected and I wouldn't hesitate to do it the same way again.

As far as running rigging, I replaced everything with all line and did the splicing myself as well.
Well done, and welcome aboard.

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post #6 of 7 Old 06-21-2007
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If your going to replace it all, you should start by marking your turn buckles. If your rig is reasonable tuned, make mark with chaulk or grease pen on the top and bottom screws. Make shure to keep the turnbuckles with the satys. Then label your halyards. Lossen all your turn buckles, and bring down the mast. This will take a few good friends or a crane to accomplish. Next loosen your turn buckles till there is only 1/4 of bolt inside the housing. Measure each stay from end to end. Then measure the space between the top and bottom of the tunbuckle housing and the marks you've made. Subtract this from the length of the stay. That gives you the finished length of the new stay. However if you intend to replace the turnbuckles, you'll need to measure the new turnbuckles and either add or subtract the difference. You can then, either have the new stays made to the length you need or see if you can find some the right lenght in good shape in a salage yard, or put them together your self like rhaley suggested. Put on your new stays and run your new halyards through. Finally, check that every thing has a fair lead, see wich of your friends will still answer your call, and put your mast back up.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-21-2007
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I would also take the mast down and check the mast head sheaves. It might be worth replacing them so you can use all line halyards. Synthetic halyards, with a dyneema or spectra core will work better than rope-to-wire halyards, and can be flipped end-for-end to help spread out the wear on the line.


Get Brian Toss's book, The Complete Rigger's Apprentice. That covers what you're doing fairly thoroughly.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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