Much ado about Racor Filters and Bleeding a Deisel - Page 4 - SailNet Community
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post #31 of 40 Old 11-24-2007
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Budda-

I agree with Cam that getting the turbine series filters is far cheaper and less headaches in the long run. Yes, it costs a bit more money upfront, but the filters, which are consumables, are far less expensive and the fact that you can see through the bowl and do a visual inspection without disassembling the damn thing is worth a fair chunk of change in my book—especially when you've got to figure out what the problem is quickly.

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post #32 of 40 Old 11-24-2007
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Not to get off the subject but I am interested in what Denise said, quote
" I do have a squeeze bulb on the fuel line from the tank too and it's been great and saved a lot of engine cranking".
I have the same set up with a Racor 500FG. A friend, who works on boats for a living, said I should change this bulb line for an electric pump setup as the bulb line can fail, like Denise I like the way it is because it's so simple and just works. Does anyone have anything negative to say about the bulb setup?
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post #33 of 40 Old 11-24-2007
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BS...you can add a little NAPA pump quite easily for under $40 and be in conformance with safety standards. (keep a bulb as backup!)
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post #34 of 40 Old 11-24-2007
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make sure you by a pump that is diesel certified
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post #35 of 40 Old 11-30-2007
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Help! Universal Diesel M18 must bleed..

I have an Ericson 30 plus and I am NOT a mechanic. I just replaced the Racor R24S filter which sits right next to an electric fuel pump. I dumped the diesel from the old filter into the new filter...probably not a great idea, but I'm trying to get the air out. On this Racor filter there is a little white plastic goodie at the top which doesn't appear to me a lift pump like some models. So how am I supposed to fill the filter with fuel? Should I run a wire from my battery post to the electric fuel pump? (positive to positive) How do I tell which is positive? Will the fuel pump blow up in my face and sink my boat with fuel if I connect the wrong wire?

Also, on top of the filter on the engine, there is a little bolt. Is this the bleed bolt? Do I remove this while filling the filter? Should fuel start coming out of it?

I must start my boat tomorrow as I'm moving to another marina. This an emergency..

Thanks.

Scot King
Son of Bruce King
Designer of Ericson Yachts
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post #36 of 40 Old 11-30-2007
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Sking,
First thing is to figure out how to turn on the fuel pump. It might well turn on with the ignition key. After you can get the pump on, you use it to pump diesel into the filter system - you do not need to fill the filters separately. All you need to do is to let the air out as the pump pushes diesel in. This is usually a messy process as a mixture of oil and air comes out, be prepared for that and for capturing the diesel. You loosen a "bleed screw" on the filters starting at the filter closest to the electric pump. When what comes out no longer has bubbles, tighten the screw and move to the next filter in line. If you are lucky and have not opened the fuel system on the engine that is all you have to do. Just let the engine run for a while after you start it to make sure it doesn't die - which is what happens if there is air in the system.
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post #37 of 40 Old 11-30-2007
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Bleeding M 18

Hi Scott,

Try this:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/un...el-system.html

I used to have the same engine, and it is easy to work on,

Barry

Barry Lenoble
Deep Blue C, 2002 C&C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY

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post #38 of 40 Old 07-18-2010
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Does anyone Know if the Raycor filter with built in hand pump are any good for priming??
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post #39 of 40 Old 07-18-2010
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It is a priming pump.

ps You are usually better to start a new thread rather than digging up an old one.

Brian
Living aboard in Victoria Harbour
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post #40 of 40 Old 07-19-2010
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Heck, I read the whole thread before I figured out it was old. Hmm...........
DD

Doug
Jboat J/37c (new to me Jan 2011); J/22 #1003


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