Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage - SailNet Community
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-09-2007 Thread Starter
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Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage

Ouch! My 36-2 was chartered out over the Forth of July holiday and suffered from a little dock rash on the return to home port. My sincere appriciate goes out to the charterer who reported the damage as soon as it happened. Now we need to figure out how to fix that damage and I'm hoping someone in the forum has some useful suggestions.

Damage

The damage to the rub rail occured right at the first stanchion on the port side. There are actually two vinal extrusions, the rub rail itself and the base that the rub rail fits into. This base is then bolted under the teak toe rail. Both pieces are broken through and a short length of the base is pushed through the inside on the toe rail. Damage is limited to about 1 foot of rub rail and there doesn't appear to be any damage to the hull or deck.

Questions

Is there some way to splice in a piece of new rub rail that results in a repair that is virtually as good as new? Where would a replacement rub rail be available? Or, do I need to replace the entire port rub rail to complete a proper repair?

Thanks,
Bill
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-09-2007
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You can probably scarf in a new piece of the extrusion that holds the rub rail in place, by lifting the teak toe rail a bit. The rub rail you can probably buy from a couple of different manufacturers. Taco Marine makes replacement rub rail in a variety of shapes.

I would highly recommend you check the deck and hull very carefully, as there may be some damage to the hull deck join.. .and that means it will leak.

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Last edited by sailingdog; 07-09-2007 at 01:06 PM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-09-2007
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Check my response on the Pearson email list about how to contact D&R Marine. Rudy there can help you.

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post #4 of 7 Old 07-12-2007
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Pearson e-mail list

Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorMitch
Check my response on the Pearson email list about how to contact D&R Marine. Rudy there can help you.
Hi SailerMitch,
Just bought a P30, How do I find this Pearson e-mail list, I need some things
Thank you for your help
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage

Hi, know this is a very old thread but did you ever replace your rub rail. I have a 1985 36-2 with similar damage. I have purchased a new 38 foot section of rub rail from DR Marine and am about to start the project. Was wanting to talk to someone who has done it if possible. Thanks.
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-01-2012
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Re: Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage

Mitch was last active here in 2009... I'm not saying he won't reply, but I wouldn't get my hopes up.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-19-2012
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Re: Pearson 36-2 rub rail damage

I have a Pearson 36-2 and have had the rub rail replaced.

I cannot speak to the detail of the repair (it was included in the repair of the deck at the chain plates at purchase) as I did not do it myself but did observe some of the work and do most of my repair work where indoor facilities or special tools are not required.

This said, It is fairly straight forward and I did talk with the shop that did mine.

The 36-2 has an outward hull to deck joint flange. the rub rail itself is an L shaped extrusion that hangs over the joint (upside-down L) and is fastened with through bolts through the teak toe rail. Since the L section is wider than the joint itself, it easy to bump it and break it because the L is has no supporting material behind it. I have seen this breakage on several other Pearson's of the same rub rail design. If I had the funds, I would bolt on an aluminum toe rail

There is a second smaller L section cap that is screwed from beneath to cover all the bolts from the bottom side with wood screws. It is screwed in at more of an upside down V with screws at the V point to cover the bottom through bolts)

The best place to observe the assembly is at the stern because it does not have the smaller L section cover cap and you can see the through bolts, and the overhang of the rub rail L section.

To remove the rub rail you will need to remove the entire teak toe rail or as far is you wish to scarf a section in, save your bolts.

When mine was removed, there was no caulk however I would suggest using 4200 when replacing it as there is many opportunities for leaks to form from the flange seal, the through bolt holes and the backing L cap that screws right into the bottom with wood screws (not nice as it is blindly screwed).

My 36-2 does have leaks, so the wholes assembly is suspect. The good thing is that you can reach all of the bolts from the outside unlike most bolts which have an inward flange.

If you do have leaks on the inside of the boat at the hull to deck joint you can observe the factory caulking from the inside . A good place to do this is in the port side lazaret, lots of space to get a look at it. If you notice caulking gaps, do not be surprised. You may be able to caulk a bit from the inside as I did in some places but it is best addressed from the top or in the joint itself .

Keep in mind, most water running off the deck runs into the rub rail extrusion then goes to the lowest drain near the cockpit coaming. Since water can reach the Rub-rail extrusion, it can get under it so... caulk it.

I wil be replacing toe rail in the off season, so if I remove the rub rail i will try to post pics.


good luck!
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