One other thing about
windlass installations. You generally need to install a chain stopper and a large
cleat or mooring bit to snub the
anchor rode to, as the
windlass is generally not designed to take the load of an
anchor rode in use. Both of these should be backed by a substantial backing plate when they are installed.
Also, if you don't have a bow roller, installing one now would be a good idea. It should also be backed with a solid backing plate. This can make deploying and stowing the
anchor much easier, since many
anchors can be stowed and deployed from bow rollers, depending on the design. A few things to look for in a bow roller—high cheek plates to help keep the
rode in place, a pin to hold the
anchor in the roller when stowed, and if your
anchor requires it for deployment, a pivoting design. Some of the newer
anchors, like the Rocna, have fairly substantial stocks and you really will need to check to see if the roller will fit your primary
anchor.
I recommend 5/16" aluminum or 1/2" marine plywood. I prefer the aluminum, since it is thinner and fairly easy to work with. Don't forget to use lanocote or some other anti-galvanic corrosion barrier between the fasteners and the aluminum backing plate.
If you are going to use an all chain
anchor rode, it is generally a good idea to have a long nylon snubber
line, preferably 45-70', so that you can use a chain hook and tie the snubber
line off to the
cleat. All chain
rode tends to put too much shock loading on the boat's
ground tackle otherwise.
The reason I recommend such a long snubber
line is that you can let out more scope if necessary without having to bring the
rode back up, remove the chain hook and then re-attach the chain hook once the
rode has been lengthened. It simplifies the procedure and makes it a bit safer as well IMHO.
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