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post #1 of 16 Old 03-07-2002 Thread Starter
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Cabin sole finish

Any suggestions as to varnish type or other finish on a 20 year old teak and holly veneer sole?
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post #2 of 16 Old 03-07-2002
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Cabin sole finish

I did my solid teak sole with Minwax polyurathane(sp?) semi-gloss varnish (7 coats). It looks very nice. I used polyurathane because it is supposed to be more wear resistant than spar varnish.

While polyurathane is not considered suitable for exterior brightwork, it is more durable to abrasion. Below decks it isn''t exposed to the UV radiation which seems to do it in on exterior brightwork.

My one concern was how slippery it would be if wet.....spilled some water on it and tried it out...was suprised that it wasn''t slippery at all. Don''t know why, but decided all the concern about varnished soles being slippery was an old wives tale... at least as far as polyurathane is concerned.

If you decide to use semi-gloss, use clear for the first few coats as the semi-gloss has stuff in it to make it less glossy and it will tend detract from the teak grain when a number of coats are applied.

Fairwinds,

Jim

P.S. Have lots of air going through the cabin or wear a Carbon filter mask.....the fumes will make you higher than a kite!!
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post #3 of 16 Old 03-08-2002
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Cabin sole finish

I did mine with a semi-gloss polyurathane. That is what several people recommended and it came out great! Do a light sanding between coats and do about 3 coats.
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-21-2002
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Cabin sole finish

Can the polyurethane be applied over old varnish, or do you have to go back to bare wood?

Thanks, Joe
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post #5 of 16 Old 03-21-2002
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Cabin sole finish

Use a floor scraper to carefully remove all the old varnish. Keep it sharp with a file and take as little wood as possible in the scraping. Sand with 80 grit, then 120. Wipe down and de-dust with solvent, do the polyurethane thang....
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-21-2002
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Cabin sole finish

The operative word in VIEXILE''s reply is definitely "carefully" since you say you''re working with veneer. Although the veneer that was around some 20 years ago probably is somewhat thicker than that available today you should try to ascertain how thick the actual veneer layer is before attacking the old varnish. If you do happen to sand through the veneer it is almost impossible to effect a nice looking repair short of replacing the veneer. You may want to try a chemical stripper although this can break down the glue holding the veneer layer or you could try to soften the old varnish with heat but this can cause the veneer to bubble if too much heat is applied. Before starting on the sole you might test the method you choose on an area that is not too obvious. A scraper generally works well but you definitely want to keep it sharp like VIEXILE said. If you do scrape, buy several shapes and sizes, don''t scrimp, buy good scrapers and you may want to round the corners of the blade with a file to help prevent inadvertant gouges. When you sharpen the scraper(s) do it off and away from the boat or be extra careful about capturing the filings. They are virtually invisible and any left laying around will cause multitudes of tiny rust spots that are almost impossible to remove. When I wood my teak, I use about ten scrapers and take them to the garage to sharpen them. If you''re around other boats, mind where the wind will take your filings.

Good luck and have fun. Remember preparation is 90% of the job; whatever finish you choose, laying it on a properly prepared surface is the fun and rewarding part.

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post #7 of 16 Old 03-23-2002
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Cabin sole finish

Saw a message about COLENAN Boat Coating for use on cabin sole -- as a finish and it has non skid properties. I have not been able to locate this product. Does anyone know where I can find it.

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post #8 of 16 Old 03-24-2002
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Cabin sole finish

What is a floor scraper? Is it an electric machine you can rent from tool rental places?
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-24-2002
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Cabin sole finish

Generally speaking the scrapers most useful on a boat are just the regular paint and varnish scrapers available at Lowe''s, Home Depot or ship''s stores. I use numerous sizes and shapes to get into hard to reach areas and the blades on the ones I have can be replaced when filed beyond usefulness. Do use a file often to keep the blades sharp. There are also literally thousands of shapes of cabinet scrapers available but these are generally not necessary for boat work. Cabinet scrapers are used by cabinet makers and other highly skilled woodworkers to shape moldings and prepare a surface for finishing. A talented woodworker would usually not use sandpaper because it tends to round and soften edges which is desirable in boat woodwork but not in cabinet making. With a proper set of hand planes, spokeshaves and cabinet scrapers used correctly there is no need for sanding. Further, a cabinet maker''s blade (scraper) requires diligent stoning, filing, blade consolidation and burnishing each done with a different tool. Probably an overkill for boatwork where varing grades of sandpaper will obtain a perfectly good surface for finishing. The paint and varnish scrapers are usually faster at removing old buildup especially when used in conjunction with heat or chemical strippers. There may be some electrically powered scrapers available but you probably would not want to use them on veneer; it is just too thin and you don''t want to run the risk of breaking through.

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post #10 of 16 Old 03-26-2002
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Cabin sole finish

Has anyone had any success in reviving the pattern in a cabin floor prior to varnishing
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