teak caulking question

cbayermd · #1 (**permalink**) 07-20-2007

the caulking between the boards in my cockpit has started to melt in some areas. it is a gooey sticky mess and does not seem to want to re-harden at all. two questions:
1) what in the world is causing this to happen?
2) do i need to remove and re-caulk the entire area?

sailingdog · #2 (**permalink**) 07-20-2007

did you spill anything on the teak in the affected area??

onokaya · #3 (**permalink**) 07-21-2007

By asking the question the obvious answer is yes. Get a Dremel(preferably with a router attachment guide) and grind the caulk out of the seams. Tape them off and use a spatula and a polysulfide(I like SIS 440 Teak Deck Caulking) to fill the seams.

cbayermd · #4 (**permalink**) 07-23-2007

i don't think i spilled anything, although this is an area right next to the fuel intake so maybe a little diesel got on it.
i figured i would just have to re-caulk as you point out and will get on that today. just hope it doesn't start happening all over the decks.
thanks so much for your help!

RichH · #5 (**permalink**) 07-23-2007

Probably a chemical reaction with either spilled diesel fuel or a reaction to any sealing compound or coating you used. "reef" out (old file with the 'tang' bent into a 'hook') the old caulk down to bare dry wood then recaulk or use a laminate trimmer (with guide) to clean out the seam to bare wood. Most caulked seams need a 'bond breaker' in the bottom of the seam before laying in new caulk so the bottom of the seam is 'free-floating' and doesnt adhere to the 'bottom' of the seam. I use 1/4" 3M 'fine line' masking tape as the bond breaker.

Best caulk Ive found recently is oxime cure single part teak decking caulk from TDS ... pretty impervious to just about everything used or spilled on a boat. This is whats used to caulk the deck on most modern mega-yachts. Doenst shrink when curing.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ystems+-+Caulk

TrueBlue · #6 (**permalink**) 07-23-2007

I bought a case of SIS 440 (TDS) last year with the intent to recaulk after reefing out much of my deck's caulking. The original caulk is actually in good condition - hasn't turned gummy or sticky.

The problem started with the PO, when he decided to apply a wood stain to the teak with the intent to keep that "new blonde" look, instead of the natural grey color. Eventually, the stain broke the polysulphide caulking bond with the sides of each planking groove and began pulling out in some areas - like rubber bands.

The good news is, the caulk comes out fairly easily and it's not a difficult job - have done some sections . . . just procrastinating finishing because it's a very time-consuming project. Lot's of teak decking on my boat.

sailingdog · #7 (**permalink**) 07-23-2007

It does sound like the diesel exposure may be the cause of the caulk deteriorating. It might be a good idea to chec the next caulk you use for the repair for resistance to diesel fuel.

sailortjk1 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008

Found this old thread trough a search.

I have a small teak inlay on the swim step that I am replacing, its about 1.5' x 1'. We noticed that water had gotten under it last year and of course over the winter.

Is the choice of the board for caulk still the TDS SIS440?

Can this be used to caulk around the Gelcoat as well?

What do I use to glue the inlay down? Would 3M 4200 work for this?

It is a small inlay of teak on my swim step, it is not a teak deck boat.
The inlay is not secured with fastners, just adhesive.