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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2007
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Lots of tropicals would do ya -- Ipe, Jatoba (aka 'Brazilian Cherry'), Canarywood, Goncalo alves, Chechen, Osage Orange, locust.... If it can ward off rot and insects in a rainforest, it can probably make it on a boat deck. Ipe is, like most of these woods, very difficult to work with: dense, brittle, splintery, abrasive, oily, prone to burning, and tending to interlocked grain and drying tension. Upshot, easy enuf to screw down S4S planks & build a house deck; but if you want to rip it into narrow strips, mortise it, glue it, rout it, or sand it, be prepared for a real hammering.

I've worked with all these woods. Here's a kitchen in Chechen, a sustainable wood from Mexico (aka blood poisonwood). You can get it in Oakland for about $6 a board foot. But any brightwork, even teak or Ipe, requires the usual rigors of oiling, sanding lifted grain, oiling again, removing salt or metal staining with oxalic acid, oiling....

Me, I'd rather go sailing.
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Old 07-30-2007
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Nice kitchen... but I'd rather go sailing too.. Minimizing exterior teak and brightwork was a big factor on my boat... I like sailing far more than I like varnishing...
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2007
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I have a ss folding boarding ladder on the transom which has teak steps. They wore away after 15 yrs of use and cleaning. I bought some 1x4 Ipe and screwed them on and they are super.. so far and I have done absolutely nothing to them. They look like weathered teak.

Ipe is very heavy and that might be a consideration.

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  #14  
Old 07-30-2007
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Another "cringe" possibility:

A low maintenance option might be the interlocking rubber/plastic tiles you see in locker rooms or showers.. cut the outer ones to fit the cockpit well and you'll have a raised, dry surface underfoot. They are available in a variety of colours. Some of the patterns are, however, hard on bare feet.

As with any such "drop-in" floor, it will collect dirt and require frequent lifting and cleaning.(but no varnishing!!)

Not necessarily "Nautical", but possibly practical and surely cost-effective.
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Old 07-30-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Another "cringe" possibility:

A low maintenance option might be the interlocking rubber/plastic tiles you see in locker rooms or showers.. cut the outer ones to fit the cockpit well and you'll have a raised, dry surface underfoot. They are available in a variety of colours. Some of the patterns are, however, hard on bare feet.

As with any such "drop-in" floor, it will collect dirt and require frequent lifting and cleaning.(but no varnishing!!)

Not necessarily "Nautical", but possibly practical and surely cost-effective.

Thanks for the idea, but I really don't like the look of that stuff (I think it's called Dri-Deck). It reminds me of Houseboats and Cruise-a-Homes I'd see as a kid in the marinas, with dri-deck and Astroturf.
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Old 07-30-2007
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I've even considered using StarBoard.
Nasty stuff. Slippery when wet, or dry, or damp. Heavy. Expensive. Bends.
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Old 07-30-2007
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Faster,
The most serious weakness would be drainage. The expensive teak footings, similar in appearance, are constructed to allow water to flow underneath. They are good though if you're going to be on your feet a lot. Most ships have them on the bridge, about 75 feet above the LWL!(g)
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Old 07-31-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by US25 View Post
Thanks for the idea, but I really don't like the look of that stuff (I think it's called Dri-Deck). It reminds me of Houseboats and Cruise-a-Homes I'd see as a kid in the marinas, with dri-deck and Astroturf.
I agree, hence the "cringe" preface.... but you said you were on a budget so.......
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Originally Posted by sailaway21 View Post
25,
Don Casey's book, "100 Fast & Easy Boat Improvements" has an idea you might be intereted in. The book runs about 15 bucks.

Instead of the typical cross hatched grating he recommends slats, fore and aft (length ways). He recommends 1x2 lumber, dimensional ideally. Teak, of course, is the most desirable for durability, but he lists redwood, red cedar, or yellow pine as alternatives.

You cut cross bracing that spans the width of your cockpit, getting as close to the sides as possible. Then you cut length ways pieces to lay on top of those, screwed together with brass screws. if the steering pedestal is in the way, cut the grate in two and make a semi-circular cut out for the pedestal base. Put some rubber or plastic feet on the bottom to lift it ever so much above the deck.

Here's the nice part of the idea. If you fasten some cleat stock, around 1x1 in size, an 1-1/2 to 2 inches below your seats on the sides of the cockpit, you can lift the grate out and lay it across the open cockpit. Resting on the cleat stock, you've now converted your cockpit into a good size bed!

With the types of wood recommended, I'd use epoxy where the slats cross and epoxy the whole thing before painting or varnishing the whole shebang. Although, with the redwood or cedar you could make a case for just staining it. I'm assuming teak is not in the budget, or we wouldn't be having this conversation.

I think casey's book is available at wm or on amazon.

I built one similar to this years ago and used strips of 3/4 inch teak plywood. It was then finished with a good polyurethane sealer in a matte finish. I paid extra attention to sealing the edges of the plywood strips. It worked well and looked good for the following 6-7 years that I had that boat.
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  #20  
Old 08-04-2007
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Just thought I 'd share my find today. I got this wood for free at a garage sale; actually it was a local boat builder's warehouse that is moving and this stuff was in the free pile. I'll post more pictures after I turn this trash into a treasure, (or a new cockpit floor).

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