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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 08-06-2007
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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
See how you can make out with what you have. Take notes about your energy budget, i.e. are you just using nav lights, or a microwave and entertainment center?
All we're using atm are the instruments (Raymarine depth sounder and knotmeter, and Garmin 498 GPS), VHF radio, and the engine starter. We used a few of the cabin lights briefly the night we over-nighted in a marina, bringing her up. We have no microwave on-board. Nor any entertainment center, other than... hmmm... I haven't even looked at it closely--I think it may be just a CD player. I dunno, maybe it's a radio, too. (Can you tell how much we cared about that accessory?) We probably won't do any night-time sailing, at least not intentionally, this season.

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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
Some things can be made more efficient regardless of how much power you will have, and "for now" if you have to run the engine for an hour daily to keep the batteries up--just do it, and make good use of the motoring while doing so.
We have nearly a 1-hour motor to get to/from the area in which, at our current level of expertise, we feel comfortable raising/lowering the sails.

I think our energy budget will have a surplus for the immediate future .

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Originally Posted by hellosailor View Post
A lot of surplus houses i.e. www.allelectronics.com have simple digital voltmeters for sale under $20, these are raw displays with electronics behind them that can measure 1-20V with good accuracy, so you can install one with a push-button switch (to turn it on when you want to read it) and check the battery state without spending a lot of money on anything fancy for now.
Thanks for the pointer. Maybe I'll go that way.

I wonder if you'd even need the push-button? Maybe just a "1/2" switch? A voltmeter should have exceedingly high resistance. I would imagine a lead-acid battery's self-discharge rate would exceed any drain from a voltmeter. In fact: Why even a separate 1/2 switch? Just pick it off something on the "output" side of the existing off/1/both/2 switch. The ol' KISS principle. One less thing to break. One less bit of additional wiring.

Jim
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  #22  
Old 08-06-2007
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Thanks for all the info it ws very helpful, I looked around keeping budget in mind found a dual 30amp charger 15 on each bank fro Dual Pro model PRO2. Got it from ebay for 162.00 plus 25 shipping. I wanted something that would give me the best charge for the buck, hopefully it will be as good as the marketing says. Since I am on a morring and do not stay in a slip except for when we cruise to marinas I wanted a fast recovery.

https://store.dualpro.com/product_in...de3d1f83185724

Has anyone heard of these I think they are used on fishing boats for the most part.
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2007
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I don't know how well this will work out for you. I think you'd be better off with a higher output charger, given that your house bank is 210 Amp-hours. This is especially true if they are wet-cell batteries.

AGM batteries are easier to charge in a short period of time, since they have a much higher charge acceptance rate for the bulk charging phase. All batteries slow down during the final 20% of charging or so... but up to 80% of charging is much faster with AGM batteries.
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  #24  
Old 08-07-2007
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Zal...looks interesting...apparently relies on temperature sensing in the connection cables to determine charge sequencing. I would not use this on gels or AGM's but looks nice for flooded!
Whatever you do...don't cut the cables to extend them if you need to. The temp sensor is in the joint between the pos/neg cable! (just read that on their site.)
Since you are on a mooring and the unit DEPENDS on its' own battery testing to determine when to turn itself from standby to "on"...you'll have to let it go through its' testing sequence before it will start charging for you as it is really designed for permanent dockside plug in. Don't assume it is not working! Also...if your batts are REALLY flat...it will not work until you get them up a bit by a standard charger first.
Let us know how it works out for you...it could be a very good product for a lot of common situations.
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Extensions

Camaraderie,

Is cutting the cables on a charger to extend them something that is commonly done? I have been thinking about my installation, and to do it the way I really want to, I need for the cables to be about ten feet long. Is this a problem?
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Interesting, what do you mean by really flat? Below 9 or 10 volts? Think I would be better off with the XANTREX ? At least this charger will be good for stroage over the winter, I will let you know how it works out. Thanks again Cam.
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Old 08-07-2007
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Drynoc...
My comment on not cutting the cables was made about a SPECIFIC brand and model charger that is non-standard in operation.
Normally you simply attach the appropriate sized battery cables to the charger for the length of wire run that you have. (Note...in calculating the length, you need to count the two way wire run. i.e. a 10 ft. distance to the battery is a 20 foot wire run. )
If the charger already comes with wires attached and you MUST cut them to extend them with a splice, this can be dangerous if the original cable is not up to spec for the new longe wire run. Contact the mfr. for guidance.
Note that most decent charges simply provide you with terminals to run the appropriate size wire to your batteries.
There is a wire gauge calculator that you can use to figure out what you need for your particular amp load and length of wire run. Here:
http://beta.circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

If you have difficulty with this...just give me the brand/model/specs of the charger you are planning on using and the length of the TOTAL wire run (I am assuming 20 ft? ) ...and I will try to help further.


Zal...Totally flat means discharged to 0% not "dead" (though doing that can kill a batt!) For a 12V battery this is 10.5Volts and if you are using 6V batts then individual batt voltage at 5.25 is considered flat.
Assuming you have flooded Zal, I think it is worth a try. I particularly like the auto shutoff and sensing for winter storage charging!
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CAM That makes sense. BTW I have Exide Nautilus Gold NG 27 Lead/antimony Batts
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Old 08-07-2007
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Zaldog-
I would think that is enough power, but the charger isn't clear about whether it is a 3-stage, or just a single-stage that kicks in and out as the battery goes from "charged" to "not". You might want to clarify that with the maker. If it is a single-stage...it will probably do well enough "for now" as long as you keep an eye on the eletrolyte level in the batteries.
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HS...checked the instruction manual...it is a modified 3 stage that will treat flooded cells just fine...just will not hold them on float once 100% has been reached. Instead it shuts charging off completely and waits to turn back on until the battery self depletes or is discharged in use.

Zal...your batts are just what this was designed for...flooded deep cycle 104A/H's each in G27 size.
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