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  #1  
Old 08-08-2007
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GE Silicone I vs. Silicone II?

The instructions for the in-hull transducer for my GPS/chartplotter/sonar recommend using either GE Silicone I or Silicone II for fastening the transducer's "bathtup" to the inside of the hull. I'm wondering if there's much difference between these two sealants and if anybody has a recommendation of one over the other, and why?

TIA,
Jim
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SEMIJim-

One quick question—Does your boat have a cored hull? If it does, the transducer has to be over an area that is not cored.. it won't work through a cored hull.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
SEMIJim-

One quick question—Does your boat have a cored hull?
Nope. Read up on the boat's construction and asked on the p30 mailing list about in-hull transducers before buying the GPS .

Thanks for the warning, tho.

Jim
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i don't think that there's a huge difference between the two.
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Old 08-09-2007
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Jim: Plump for the Silicone II if you can get it. It has better adhesion to plastics and fiberglass, is mildew-resistant, has lower shrinkage, and doesn't stink like an overturned vinegar cruet. Iz good schtuff. (At $6 a tube, it bloody well ought to be!) Keep lots of rags and some paint thinner handy for cleanup. Water alone won't remove mess. There's usually mess. (The GE caulks DO come with their own snap-on cap, however. If you can keep it on.)
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Bob's got a good point. The acetic acid curing silicones really don't have any use on a boat—especially not as a sealant, since they can promote corrosion.
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Thanks for the info, Bob. That's just what I was looking for. GE Silicone II it is

Jim
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Semi!

make sure you test the spot before adhering anything to the inside of the hull. My preference is a zip lock baggy filled with water. Simply place the transducer on the baggy then set the baggy where you want the transducer to go. If there is any air in the laminate, which is very common on hand laid hulls, the transducer will have poor performance.

I HATE silicone for one reason and that reason is that NOTHING removes it except for sand paper and grinding away your hull. Even when wet, and not cured, nothing totally removes it for clean up not mineral spirits not acetone not MEK.. If it were me I'd be using Sikaflex or 3M4200. Silicone is NOT allowed on my boat!

One other option is a toilet bowl wax ring $1.99 at most hardware stores. It molds nicely to the hull and you can just plop the transducer into it and head off sailing. A buddy of mine is going on his fifth season with his "temporary" and "test fit" for his ducer with a wax ring..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
make sure you test the spot before adhering anything to the inside of the hull.
Of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
My preference is a zip lock baggy filled with water. Simply place the transducer on the baggy then set the baggy where you want the transducer to go. If there is any air in the laminate, which is very common on hand laid hulls, the transducer will have poor performance.
Very well, I'll consider the zip-lock baggy method. (I was going to use the K-Y method. Seemed simpler.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
If it were me I'd be using Sikaflex or 3M4200. Silicone is NOT allowed on my boat!
Instructions specifically and explicitly say not to use 4200. (Tho I suspect the reason may be because of end-users getting the surface prep wrong and ending-up with mineral oil or whatever leaking all over the place and a non-functional sonar.) What is "Sikaflex?"

Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
One other option is a toilet bowl wax ring $1.99 at most hardware stores. It molds nicely to the hull and you can just plop the transducer into it and head off sailing. A buddy of mine is going on his fifth season with his "temporary" and "test fit" for his ducer with a wax ring..
Thanks for the idea, but I think I'll just stick with the installation instructions .

Jim
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FYI- Polyureathane-based sealants can attack plastics, and that is probably why 4200 is contra-indicated.
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