Brightwork Maintenance - SailNet Community
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 40 Old 08-09-2007 Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Brightwork Maintenance

NEED HELP WITH MY BRIGHTWORK. My grab bars, dorade boxes and trim are teak and have been done in the past with Epiphanes. What is best way to maintain and freshen these up? How do you deal with spots where the varnish has chipped off and has exposed the grey teak, while the rest is a rich dark color? I also have noticed that some sections have turned a yellowish color, almost like a staining which I have also seen on other boats. Looking for good advice and techniques. Thanks, Dennis.
CLOVERMILL is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 40 Old 08-09-2007
Senior Member
 
Freesail99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,507
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Send a message via Yahoo to Freesail99
Sanding and more sanding is what I do, then re apply the varnish.

S/V Scheherazade
-----------------------
I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by Freesail99; 08-09-2007 at 09:43 AM.
Freesail99 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 40 Old 08-09-2007
Operating life w/o a net
 
SchoonerMISTRESS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: North East Florida
Posts: 134
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
When ever anyone asks Skip what he uses on his teak to make it look so good, it is always the same reply. A scrub brush. While there is plenty on MISTRESS that has varnish, all our teak is natural. About twice a month I take out a scrub brush, add a little bleach to some water, and use elbow grease to clean them up. When done, they are a beautiful color and all of the grey is gone. When they get wet, they turn a pretty golden color.

With reference to varnish itself. Skip has always used epiphanes until just before the launch when he was running out of time. He opted to try Bristol finish which is suppose to last two years here in the Florida sun. It is now one year 4 months old and looks as good as the day it was laid. Nice thing about Bristol was he was able to lay 5 coats down the first day, give a quick scuff the second day, and then apply one more coat. Big time savings over epiphanes.
Kathleen
aboard
Schooner MISTRESS
SchoonerMISTRESS is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 40 Old 08-09-2007
Senior Member
 
Boasun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 3,070
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
   
Bright work?? what brightwork... Due to the judicious use of a paint brush, I don't worry about any brightwork...

Mainly because I haven't bought my next boat yet either.
Boasun is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 40 Old 08-09-2007
Senior Member
 
RichH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,456
Thanks: 24
Thanked 153 Times in 142 Posts
Rep Power: 16
 
I dont worry about brightwork either.
I have a teak farm and covered it with "Honey Teak" 6 years ago and probably have another 6 years before I have to 'redo' it. Just a quick scuff with a scotchbright pad followed by two quick coats of 'clear' every two years ... and a quick light power-buff in the intervening years. Needs to be applied 'thick' (wet on wet on wet) initially. www.signaturefinish.com
RichH is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 40 Old 10-15-2007
Junior Member
 
leecarlson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 13
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
 
Sand, don't scrub

Hello Dennis, just found this thread while I was searching for something else, so sorry about the late reply; hope it still helps. Definitely the only right way to do it is strip, sand and bleach. Lots of good books, website advice on the subject that will tell you what grit sandpaper, etc.

The one thing I wanted to emphasize is, if you leave the teak natural, DON'T scrub the natural teak with a regular scrub brush. Hard bristles will remove the soft cellulose fibers over time, leaving you with teak that has ridges/valleys and must be deeply sanded and eventually replaced. Even the soft bristle brushes used by professional crew on boats with teak decks will cause wear if used too hard and too often. That's why in the olden days they used to "holystone" the decks.

In the long run, some sort of coating is always best to protect the wood. If you leave it natural, it will eventually rot and need to be replaced. Maybe 10 years, maybe 20, maybe 30, but eventually it will happen.

I'm about to redo all exterior teak on my boat with Bristol Finish. A formidable task on a 62-foot boat, but from all the people I know that have done it, well worth the effort, in looks, ease of application and longevity. I just don't like the looks of any of the new one-step teak stains such as Cetol or Honey Teak. Looks cheap, IMHO.

Capt. Lee Carlson
Deliveries, Instruction, daily charters
Sail & Power
Offshore or inshore, worldwide
(Home Port Long Island Sound)
Our boat, our home, our love: "Nirvana" 62-ft. ketch
leecarlson is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 40 Old 10-15-2007
Senior Member
 
teshannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,713
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
     
Do you need to completely sand the old finish off before reapplying Cetol or can you freshen it up with light sanding and then a few more coats?
teshannon is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 40 Old 10-15-2007
On the hard
 
CharlieCobra's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bellingham, WA.
Posts: 3,503
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Rep Power: 11
   
If it's cracking, checking or peeling it all needs to come off because the foundation is toast.
CharlieCobra is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 40 Old 10-15-2007
Senior Member
 
teshannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,713
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
     
CC,
Thanks. No mine is just a little worn and scratched in spots, otherwise tigh and in good condition. I was hoping I could just dress it up without having to strip it all off.
teshannon is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 40 Old 10-15-2007
Seņor Member
 
TrueBlue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Narragansett Bay
Posts: 4,853
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 13
     
te,
Normally, one seasonal recoating is all that Cetol requires, after only a light scuffing with a Scotch Brite pad. In the past, some areas of my Cetol finish have gotten a bit worn, sometimes down to bare wood. This is the nature of Cetol, being somewhat soft.

All the worn areas require is to lightly sand just the exposed wood and feather the edges of surrounding Cetol. Then apply a couple coats of fresh Cetol - while blending in the new to the old finish level. This is not difficult and doesn't take long. I even use a disposable foam applicator, so there's no clean-up involved.

Last season, I applied a couple coats of Cetol Clear gloss and have found the finish to be much harder, requiring fewer touch-ups. Subsequent annual maintenance coats are Clear, but keep some Light (Marine or Natural if that's what you've used) for future bare wood or scratched area touch-ups.

True Blue . . .
sold the Nauticat
TrueBlue is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Low Maintenance Brightwork: Varnish or Linear Polyurethane over Epoxy? Spencer28 Gear & Maintenance 9 09-14-2011 10:44 AM
Reducing Exterior Maintenance Sue & Larry Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 10-15-2003 08:00 PM
Putting the Bright in Brightwork Don Casey Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 05-18-2003 08:00 PM
The Art of Maintaining Brightwork Sue & Larry Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 12-31-1998 07:00 PM
The Art of Maintaining Brightwork Sue & Larry Her Sailnet Articles 0 12-31-1998 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome