dumb question on thru hull valves

[dohenyboy]

Had a lot of work done on my boat last year. One of the heads has never worked right--too much back pressure when pumping out--and I followed the line going out of the holding tank to the thru hull. I thought I would close the thru hull valve and reopen it to see how free it was. The valve is a nice and newer Red and White brand. Only problem is that the air conditioning guy ran the condenser lines directly to the side of the valve, so that the lines block the lever-- it cannot be closed. Obviously a potentially boat-sinking problem.
As I see it I have three choices: possibly I can rotate the valve --tighten it on the thru hull by 90 degrees, so that the lever falls another place--is this feasible and can I do it without a haul out?
Second, I could have a lever made up with the same rectangular hole that is in the current lever (the hole fits over the valve stem), just offset 90 degrees
third, I could have an extension put on the thru hull, so that the lever is higher and can clear the airconditioning lines. This would definitely have to be done while hauled out.
Any input?

[sailaway21]

If offsetting it 180 degrees will help, just unbolt the lever, flip it 180 degrees and re-bolt. If you make up a new one, not too big a job, and mount it 90 degrees off, make sure you label it in some way that someone unfamiliar with it will be able to readily see that, "in the closed position-it's open".

[sailingdog]

Originally Posted by dohenyboy

Had a lot of work done on my boat last year. One of the heads has never worked right--too much back pressure when pumping out--and I followed the line going out of the holding tank to the thru hull. I thought I would close the thru hull valve and reopen it to see how free it was. The valve is a nice and newer Red and White brand. Only problem is that the air conditioning guy ran the condenser lines directly to the side of the valve, so that the lines block the lever-- it cannot be closed. Obviously a potentially boat-sinking problem.

Yes this is a major problem... I would shoot the A/C guy who installed those lines...

As I see it I have three choices: possibly I can rotate the valve --tighten it on the thru hull by 90 degrees, so that the lever falls another place--is this feasible and can I do it without a haul out?

Not if the through-hull and seacock were installed properly. The seacock shouldn't be able to turn any further.

Second, I could have a lever made up with the same rectangular hole that is in the current lever (the hole fits over the valve stem), just offset 90 degrees

Yup, but mark it very clearly as Sailaway21 has indicated, so that no one closes it, thinking it is closed, when it is actually open. Seacocks are designed so that it can be seen if they are open or closed at a glance... and closing a head seacock while at sea, and then using that head while the seacock is closed can be a very bad thing.

third, I could have an extension put on the thru hull, so that the lever is higher and can clear the airconditioning lines. This would definitely have to be done while hauled out.
Any input?

Probably not a good idea. The extension would increase the torque applied to the throughhull when the seacock is opened or closed. Generally not a good idea.

[7tiger7]

I would find the guy who ran the AC lines and have him reroute them for you, free of charge. He should of been smart enough not to block the operation of a seacock in the first place.

[dohenyboy]

Here is an update
I was able to bend the lines so that I could close the valve, but there must be some growth in it, because I had to hammer the lever down and even then there is a trickle of water coming out. I left it closed like this and plan to have the boat hauled and a new valve installed--the right way so I can exercise the valve.
I found two things causing the problem with high pressure as the toilet is emptied. I took off each hose beginning with the toilet and the last piece going to the Y valve was a culprit. Its the hardest one to change because it snakes through some bulkheads, and looks like it was not changed when all the other hoses were last time, because it definitely much older looking--anyway, this hose, which is about 6 feet long, was full of dirt. I mean only a little hole in the center about pencil diameter remained free.
Secondly, the Y valve was installed backwards. It supposed to direct the flow either into the holding tank (into a fitting at the top of the tank) or to the through hull. It was installed so in one valve position it flowed into the through hull, and in the other position blocked the inlet hose and instead connected the top of the holding tank to the through hull. So, the toilet could never discharge into the holding tank.
Its one of these valve where the handle shows the flow direction. I cannot believe someone could be so stupid (and it was a "pofessional") to make this mistake. Seems that half the time when work is done on a boat by a "professional" its done incorrectly. Its the most frustrating part of boat ownership to me.

[sailingdog]

Dohenyboy-

Just remember, all being a professional takes is having the IRS know you do it for a living...it doesn't require that you be any good at what you do. I know a lot of amateurs that are far better and more trustworthy and skilled than most of the professionals I've seen. This is true for every field, from photography, electricians, plumbers, network engineers, mechanics, and so on.