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08-22-2007
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: St Peters, MO
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windlass convenience opinions?
 Have any of you used both a remote (on a cable) switch and foot switches to operate a windlass? Of the two, which is more convenient to use? I am in the process of installing a windlass on my 37 Endeavour, and find I need a switch. Obviously, I would like the most convenience, that's why I decided to install a windlass in the first place! The switch provided with the windlass says it must be installed in a dry place, because it is not waterproof. Makes me wonder if the engineers at Lewmar have ever been on a boat! I may wire that switch in a covered location at the helm, but I want a switch on the foredeck because I think it prudent to be up there watching the rode and the anchor as it comes up. Thanks for your advice!
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08-22-2007
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A little less cheek
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Valparaiso bound
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I have both. In good weather I use the foot switch, when it's blowing against me, I use the remote. With the remote, I can power up to the anchor. I don't consider it a convenience, but rather a necessity.
It's a simple deal to buy and install, a couple wires a solenoid, switch and enough wire to reach wherever you want the swithch to go.
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Just checking in. Where ya'll keep'n the wimmin 'round here?
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08-22-2007
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Wandering Aimlessly
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I have an up foot switch forward (left over from older windlass) and an up/down switch at the helm. There are times I wish I had a down at the bow, but it's not that big a deal.
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John
Ontario 32 - Aria
Free, is the heart, that lives not, in fear.
Full, is the spirit, that thinks not, of falling.
True, is the soul, that hesitates not, to give.
Alive, is the one, that believes, in love. JCP
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08-22-2007
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Seńor Member
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Location: Narragansett Bay
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We have separate up & down foot switches at the bow and a helm mounted up/down switch, both considered very useful and valuable during anchoring.
Typically when powering to the point where I decide to drop anchor, I give the signal for my foredeck crew (wife) to release the anchor lock and use the foot switch to drop ground tackle along with the trip line/float - while I reverse engine. She points to where the float is so I can steer accordingly and counts off the 25 ft chain markers with hand signals.
When the desired rode length is payed out I give a forward burst to stop the boat. She then connects the chainhook to chain & nylon snubber to a bow cleat - signalling me when ready. I reverse until the snubber tightens - confirming anchor set.
If I drop or weigh anchor solo, I need to go forward & then back to the helm, regardless of switch location - to power & steer. But the foot switches are a definite convenience.
I don't think I'd want a remote - just something else to worry about. Especially, after watching the crew of a large powerboat drop her wireless remote in the water while anchoring off Newport's Jazz Festival a couple weekends ago.
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08-22-2007
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Telstar 28
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
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I would highly recommend that any switch for a power windlass be far enough from the windlass that you can't get your fingers on the chain and accidentally trigger the windlass. I've met several long-term cruisers who have mangled their fingers by accidentally getting them caught in the windlass gypsy by the rode.
A remote increases the chances that you'll accidentally trigger the windlass when you least want to IMHO... and if you have controls both in the cockpit and forward, you need to have some way of interlocking the controls you aren't using to help prevent accidents.
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Sailingdog
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Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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08-22-2007
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Our Lewmar foot switches have hinged covers - preventing accidental windlass activation. However, I do agree that if foredeck crew needs to put their hands near the chain gypsy when anchoring, communication with the helmsman is critically important.
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True Blue . . .
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08-22-2007
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Telstar 28
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TB-
Unfortunately, the safety covers don't prevent someone from thinking, "if I could just move this chain a tiny bit" and then getting their hand/fingers crushed because they underestimated how fast the windlass would move the chain.
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Sailingdog
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Telstar 28
New England
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)
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08-22-2007
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Shiva is fitted with a Mawell VWC vertical windlass and both up and down footswtiches and a remote in the cockpit.
I do all the anchoring and so I have used the cockpit switch to drop the hook a few times, but usually go forward and complete the task.
My set up requires that the retrieval be pretty much inline with the boat or the chain can jump up on the roller against the jaws of the bow roller fitting. So I need to be forward to observe the angle of the rode.
My foot switches are located far enough from the windlass that I cannot easily be involved in the windlass and get into trouble, but they do provide a location which I can see and also being close to the life lines hold on if necessary. There are times when the anchorage can get pretty rolly and a hand hold is in order.
I would say that the remote is very optional and offers little benefit.
jef
sv shiva
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08-22-2007
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moderate?
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I think the need for a remote is minimal unless you are single handing.
We got a free fall windlass which I think is superior to the 2-way windlass we used to have. It gets the hook down fast without using any amps and leaves only one protected footswitch on the foredeck. There are frequent problems with mud/gunk, twisted chain, snags and of course the need to remove your snubber/bridle from the foredeck so I don't see any need for a remote since I have to be on the bow anyway.
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08-22-2007
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Thanks for your input- I think after reading this, I shall install, on the foredeck, a cable type switch, which the west marine catalog refers to as a remote. Definitely NOT a wireless remote (I drop things; e.g. did you know that cell phones cannot swim?) and a switch at the helm. The mention of bad weather blowing against me makes me think - I can just imagine balancing on one foot to operate switches with the other foot, in a 30 knot wind! I can use a cabled switch with one hand and hold on with the other! If I need my hands to clear a mess on the windlass, I can drop the switch on the deck and the cable will keep it from going swimming. By the way, since I am the foredeck crew, and my beloved stays at the helm, she doesn't do hand signals well and dosen't like my tone when I shout. I went to a toy store and for under 20 bucks bought a pair of headset/microphone combination, made for kids to play with. She and I can now speak in a normal tone, be heard and understood, even though she is 30 feet away and standing above a diesel engine. Since these are toys, the range is only a couple hundred feet, but after all, how big is your boat? When we depart for our retirement cruising, I shall buy another pair as a spare, since must toys are not bulletproof quality.
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