Re-sealing deck hardware

[kwaltersmi]

I had two pieces of deck hardware (lifeline stanchion & connector for a shroud) that were allowing water to leak into the cabin. I fixed both by removing them, and remounting with new marine sealant.

Now I'm wondering if I should take the time to re-seal all of the deck hardware, or wait for leaks. My boat is 1972 Helms 25, so I'm sure more leaks are just a matter of time. On the other hand, my lazy side says to just move on to the next project (like giving the hull a fresh coat of polyeurythene). Should I re-seal all the deck hardware while I'm in the groove or "if they aren't leaking, don't worry about it!"?

All opinions are valued. Thanks!

[sailingdog]

If you're going to be re-bedding the two pieces, it is likely that the other pieces are of the same age and going to leak soon...so re-bedding them at the same time may save you some headaches in the future. It would also be worth checking to see if any of the deck hardware goes through cored sections of the deck, and if it does, it would be worthwhile to pot the holes properly with thickened epoxy.

[sailaway21]

kwaltersmi,
Yes, I'd do them all. And I'd repot them with epoxy while doing so.

And, I'd be very interested in what was going on with that chainplate that was allowing water ingress. This is not an area where you want to settle for slop in fitment or allow degradation of the deck and chainplate attachments to continue.

Doing a moderately difficult job now will be far preferable to the more extensive repairs required later. Stay in the groove. You're in fresh water-that hull paint can wait until you're really bored with life.(g)

[kwaltersmi]

Thanks for the input guys. And yes, I did "pot" the holes with thickened epoxy per Don Casey's methods.

[sailingdog]

BTW, I generally recommend countersinking all the potted holes slightly, so that the sealant can fill in the countersink and form an o-ring of sorts there.

[mikehoyt]

Kwaltersmi

The stanchion leak means as others have said you should remove and rebed all stanchions.

I would suggest you find a moisture meter and check the content around all stanchions and esp the chainplates. I am not familiar with the construction of Helms 25 but if it has a cored deck you probably have rotted core at least in these areas. If not cored then the leak is not a structural concern for the deck - just a bother.

If the deck is cored and full of moisture around chainplates then consider recore of that area a future project. If not just reseal.

On my boat I resealed around the chainplates when I had my deck refinished. Before the refinish I had no leaks. After the reseal port side leaked and was extremely annoying. Two years later and three resealing attempts later I finally recored both sides around the chainplates and problem is gone. The leaks were only occasional and only when wind a certain strength from a certain direction - but still annoying.

Mike

Full Tilt 2

[maryjane41]

If anyone wants to view the consequences on not being vigilent with leaks, please see youtube.com and search: Abigail Susan.

We recommend vigilent attention to leaks.

Maryjane Westra s/v Abigail Susan

[wumhenry]

When I bought my '81 Bristol 29.9 last year, the surveyor recommended rebedding the chainplates, but I haven't done it yet because I can't get the coverplates off. After removing the screws I tried to pry the coverplates off with a screwdriver, but they wouldn't budge. My guess is that a PO used 3M 5200 to bed the chainplates. What should I do?

[sailingdog]

wumhenry-

Go to the store and get some Debond... it is a chemical solvent designed to help remove hardware bedded with 3M 5200.

[kwaltersmi]

I don't believe my hardware was bonded with 3M 5200, but I found that heat (heat gun or really hot hair dryer) were effective in loosening the bond between the hardware and the fiberglass deck.

After hardware removal, acetone works well to clean the bedding surface and remove old sealer/bonding agent.