Corrosion Issue

[hellosailor]

Chris-
PBlaster is great. Autozone and other chains carry it. It is NOT just a WD-40 clone, it makes heavily rusted bolts release like new. (Here, have some KoolAid and a saffon robe, it tends to start religions.)
The only other product like it is Kroil, which is not available retail--only direct from the web or industrial suppliers.

Another great way to unstuck parts is to FREEZE them instead of heating them. Ice them down with a CO2 extinguisher (costs about $25 to refill the 5-10# size), let them thaw, ice them down again 2x-3x. Or, make up a slurry of dry ice chips in alcohol on a rag wrapping and let that soak down on the part for a while. Dry ice is sold in supermarkets down south, sometimes in ice cream stores or else from the yellow pages.

Freeze cycling works just as well as heat--with no fire danger. Just beware possible frostbite, and that breathing CO2 without ventilation is a good way to pass out. Gloves, goggles, ventilation, etc. but it still beats all heck out of setting things on fire.

[scurvy]

Thanks Hellosailor! I thought that there was a product (CRC) or something like that that worked on that same principle. It comes in the form of an aerosol can and it freezes whatever is sprayed. A couple of applications and the bolts and whatever else was treated slip right off....

Ever hear of a product like that? Kind of what I was fishing for in the first place...

Chris

[hellosailor]

Chris, I know CRC makes "Freeze Spray" for use in auto & electronics diagnostics, I have no idea how much cold-soaking capacity it has compared to the other alternatives.

[Rockter]

A heat gun may be too hot. Watch you don't set fire to the diesel under the cap or expand it such that it pops off or something, then catches fire.

Please be careful.

You can take the lift pump off first, then take it outside.

That would be safer.

[Gummy]

I had the same problem acouple weeks ago. I have the same engine. Ther is a little screenlike filter under that cap that is flat. I ended up just sticking a screwdriver shaft just into the hole about a quarter inch and prying sideways. It came off with no damage.(thankfully)
Rod

[Tartan34C]

What I do is get a cup of coffee and settle into a comfortable position next to the engine. I tap the part with a ballpeen hammer for 15 minuets and then try to move the part. Repeat as often as necessary and the part will come out at some point. The biggest problem is deciding where to tap and how hard to hit it. Without seeing the part I can’t make any recommendation on that. This is a case where experience helps.
Good luck and all the best,
Robert Gainer

[Giulietta]

Originally Posted by Tartan34C

What I do is get a cup of coffee and settle into a comfortable position next to the engine. I tap the part with a ballpeen hammer for 15 minuets and then try to move the part. Repeat as often as necessary and the part will come out at some point. The biggest problem is deciding where to tap and how hard to hit it. Without seeing the part I can’t make any recommendation on that. This is a case where experience helps.
Good luck and all the best,
Robert Gainer

Funny...that's how our prime minister was born......

[Sailormann]

Can you post a photo of the part??

SD you're copying all these pics so that you can write a photo-illustrated book on maintenance and not have to pay for photography aren't ya ? Got ya figured Sunshine ! For 10% of gross sales I won't let anyone else in on the scam

[sailingdog]

Originally Posted by Sailormann

SD you're copying all these pics so that you can write a photo-illustrated book on maintenance and not have to pay for photography aren't ya ? Got ya figured Sunshine ! For 10% of gross sales I won't let anyone else in on the scam

Damn... you're onto me... unfortunately, most of the ones I've seen so far wouldn't get by my photo editor... a very picky SOB.