Stabilized Binoculars

[Wayne25]

I have sailed my new to me Helms 25 for a year now and realize the importance of a good set of binoculars. My wife and I use a pair of small stadium binoculars and a standard set. We find them to be almost useless on the boat, due to the constant movement. Have any of you used stabilized binoculars? If so, what make, features and power would you recommend. I did a search on this site for info, but didn't find much.
I found this site http://www.binoculars.com/specialty_...tabilized.html and saw that the Cannons came down in price. Does anyone use the Cannon’s? Although waterproof is important, our existing sets are not and it hasn't been an issue with the type of sailing we do.

Thanks for your input.

Wayne

[AboardIndigo]

Although I'm fairly new to dealing with this, I find that standing up and bending my knees helps tremendously.

[sailingdog]

Wayne-

Most people use binocs that are 7x50, since they're a good compromise between magnification and low-light gathering ability.

The first number is magnification... and the higher the number, the more "jumpy" the binocs will be.

The second is the objective diameter... and if you divide it by the magnification, you'll get the exit pupil diameter. In this case it is about 7mm... that means at night your pupils can be 7mm in effective diameter... if the binocs were 10x50's, then the exit pupil would be only 5mm and effectively half the light your eyes can gather. The larger the exit pupil, the brighter the binocs will appear at night.

Stabilized binocs rely on electronics to do the stabilization and often have higher magnifications, which makes it harder to find what you're looking for, since the angle of view in narrower, and generally do not work as well in low light, since the exit apertures are smaller... allowing less light through. Also, if the electronics fail, they're pretty useless aboard a boat, since the higher magnification makes it pretty much impossible to use them without the stabilization.

You really do want a waterproof set, since the expansion and contraction of air in a non-waterproof set will often lead to condensation inside the body and that leads to mold/mildew growing on the lenses. Not to mention, if they do end up on the cockpit floor, and get wet... they're much more likely to survive being waterproof and nitrogen filled.

[sailortjk1]

I agree with the original poster, very hard to use a standard set of binocs on board.
In a nice calm and crowded anchorage they are great to bikini watch.
But out in open waters with any type of rolling sea they are not very useful.

[byrondv]

Originally Posted by sailortjk1

I agree with the original poster, very hard to use a standard set of binocs on board.
In a nice calm and crowded anchorage they are great to bikini watch.
But out in open waters with any type of rolling sea they are not very useful.

Binocs to bikini watch? Come on! You are supposed to row on over there and invite them over for a drink...

Even if they say no, you got a nice close look.

[sailingdog]

If you learn how to move with the boat, you can compensate for the boat's movement and then binos aren't all that hard to use... If I can use a 300 mm camera lens aboard a moving boat, you can surely use a set of binocs. If you're sitting, you're basically screwed... you can't move enough to absorb the motion of the boat... so you need to really stand. Larger binocs work better IMHO, since they tend to move less... but they can't be much more than 7x magnification, or the magnification works against you.

I'd also second Byron's idea... provided they don't have a large deck ape watching over them... deck apes can be dangerous.

[christyleigh]

I've had a pair of Nikons for a few years now and I think they are great. The original battery is still working in my short season. The stabilization is switchable and when off they are far from useless. I don't remember the power but the 10x50 that SD mentioned sounds right. If they fail totally - I'd simply pick up my old pair and sail on...... and I would be ordering another pair - the next day - as I would never want to be without them again !!

[TrueBlue]

Effectively using non-stabilizing binoculars on a moving boat can be challenging at times - especially if the subject is moving as well.

There's some similarity to riding a horse - where a rider will buffer the horse's galloping movement by using his legs as shock absorbers. I find it is best to stand, such as how AboardIndigo describes. With feet planted on deck, stay focused on the subject while bending the knees & waist.

Ever watch a bird sitting on a moving tree branch? His head seems fixed, while the body moves in sync to the motion effects caused by wind.

[byrondv]

Originally Posted by TrueBlue

Effectively using non-stabilizing binoculars on a moving boat can be challenging at times - especially if the subject is moving as well.

There's some similarity to riding a horse - where a rider will buffer the horse's galloping movement by using his legs as shock absorbers. I find it is best to stand, such as how AboardIndigo describes. With feet planted on deck, stay focused on the subject while bending the knees & waist.

Ever watch a bird sitting on a moving tree branch? His head seems fixed, while the body moves in sync to the motion effects caused by wind.

I have a pair of non-stabalized binoculars on my boat - and I just can't use them. Moving with the boat to cancel out the motion is all fine and good - but if my hands shake to much that isn't going to change the result. So it isn't just the motion around you that can be an issue.

I find myself dragging out the dSLR and using the image stabalized lens more then the binoculars.

Besides, if I am using the dSLR... I can take pictures of anything *cough* that I might happen to like. That might be part of it.

[bottleinamessage]

I've done a fair amount of research on this subject and have arrived at the following conclusion. Fujinon 14x40 IS is the best way to go IMHO.