How much of a propane smell? - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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After reading this, I am getting a propane detector.

I did a quick search at Defender and the Propane Detectors all seem to be 12V.
Does anybody know of a 9v Propane Detector similiar to a home smoke detector?

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post #12 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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I don't know about the nine volt ones, but I found out when I installed propane detectors this summer that they can be triggered by lots of things besides propane, i.e.: battery gassing, gasoline, propane, butane, some cleaning products... might want to keep thins in mind when you are locating it.
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post #13 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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Originally Posted by labatt View Post
Figures... we're leaving today for 6 days off on the boat...
Hey... that's six days in which to find and fix the leak.
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I don't know about the nine volt ones, but I found out when I installed propane detectors this summer that they can be triggered by lots of things besides propane, i.e.: battery gassing, gasoline, propane, butane, some cleaning products... might want to keep thins in mind when you are locating it.
I don't mind them detecting gasoline, butane or hydrogen...

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post #14 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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IMHO any boat with a propane system should be required to have a sniffer. I wouldn't feel comfortable on a boat without one. They are easy to install and hook up, and not that expensive. If you have ever seen the videos (sorry, didn't have time to look up a link) of boats blowing up from propane I'm sure you will feel the same way. Propane is probably the most dangerous thing you can have on a boat as it is heavier than air and will build up in the bilge or any low spot, and ignites with the smallest spark. We leave our sniffer circuit breaker on all the time, so that when we first get to the boat and turn the battery switch on the sniffer comes on before we do anything else. It would probably be better to have the sniffer connected to the battery all the time so we don't have to touch the battery switch, still debating the pros and cons of this.

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post #15 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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Soap and water, as suggested. You will see it bubble where there is a leak. Just back-track it and it will not be that big of a deal. If you have problems, let us know here. I have back'tracked them before.

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post #16 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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I had to change over from tank 1 to tank 2 two weeks ago. When I did, I noticed that the pigtail started to leak at the fitting conected to the regulator. I closed the tank immediately. Last night I replaced the pigtail and did the soap and water test. It checked out.

But, how do you get at the fitting and hoses to check the connections at the appliance?

We have a two burner stove and oven. I loose sight of the supply hose after it leaves the propane locker. I imagine it runs through the lazzerette, than into the cabin and behind the stove.

Do you soap and water the whole supply hose? Just the fittings?

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post #17 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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Just the fittings would be suspect tj - and I would assume a continuous length from either your solenoid or manifold (splits the line in two in your case), up to the intake fitting of your stove.

We have original copper tubing for gas lines throughout the boat, with brass compression fittings at splitters, appliances and cocks. There is rubber hose at the tank locker and where connected to the rear of the stove - of course to enable flexibility in removing both tanks and stove unit.

I slid the stove unit out earlier this year, to retrieve a knife which had fallen behind it. I checked all connections while doing so with soap & water, just as a precaution, in case anything loosened.

The stovetop has ridgid pipe leading to each cast aluminum burner component, each of which I had also checked . . . no leaks.

This is the readout panel of the propane detector, installed on my boat presumably by a prior owner:


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post #18 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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Sailor-

Most of the appliances have a top plate that can be unbolted, allowing you pretty good access to all of the fittings and hoses. As TB pointed out, the run from the solenoid valve to the stove should be a single continuous run of uninterrupted hose or pipe... preferably hose, since the pipe is subject to corrosion and vibration induced fatigue.

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I had to change over from tank 1 to tank 2 two weeks ago. When I did, I noticed that the pigtail started to leak at the fitting conected to the regulator. I closed the tank immediately. Last night I replaced the pigtail and did the soap and water test. It checked out.

But, how do you get at the fitting and hoses to check the connections at the appliance? Unless you have a chafe problem, the hose itself should be fine... and the main points where chafe occurs are usually where it passes through a bulkhead. These points should have the hose protected from chafe by a grommet or some other similar device.

We have a two burner stove and oven. I loose sight of the supply hose after it leaves the propane locker. I imagine it runs through the lazzerette, than into the cabin and behind the stove.

Do you soap and water the whole supply hose? Just the fittings?

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her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Last edited by sailingdog; 08-31-2007 at 10:54 PM.
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post #19 of 35 Old 08-31-2007 Thread Starter
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I wonder if these things are any good... http://www.tpi-store.com/product.php...0&category=443 or http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Handh.../dp/B000B8WKVI

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post #20 of 35 Old 08-31-2007
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That looks like a good start.
I am going to look into a complete system this off season, but that little hand held looks like it might be able to be used as a temporary.

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