Teak deck companies....who's best - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 09-11-2007
Talisman66's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Racine on the lake
Posts: 59
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Talisman66 is on a distinguished road
Teak deck companies....who's best

OK, thanks for clarifying Awlgrip vs Awlcraft. Also, I've decided to replace my 29 year old teak deck and have found 2 companies in Fla that will duplicate my deck with their new panels. I did some test sanding and fixing bad spots but the wood battens are so thin (deteriorated) that I would have to sand off too much at the seams to get it flat, then it would be about 3/16 to 1/4 thick, then all the screw heads.....So, any experiences with TeakDecking Systems in Sarasota, FL or Teak Deck Company in Lake Park, FL ?? What would one expect to pay per squarefoot?? Anyone else that I should try? I'm 1 hour north of Chicago if it makes any difference. thanks Sailnet ROCKS!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 09-11-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2,282
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Rockter will become famous soon enough
Talisman...

If it is a GRP boat, whatever you do, do not let them tack the new decks through the top layer of GRP on the deck, no matter what they say otherwise.

One practical way is to have the existing holes sealed, then a (say) 10 mm teak deck bonded to the GRP.... no fasteners.

Don't drill that deck to fasten the teak.

I got quoted £12,000 for that, in Scotland.... choke!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 09-11-2007
camaraderie's Avatar
moderate?
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 15
camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough camaraderie is a jewel in the rough
If you are going to have your teak deck removed, I would encourage you to thing about keeping it removed and simply refinishing the boat deck in glass and non-skid and painting w/ 2 part paint. It will be easier to maintain and will be an advantage on re-sale to have a good looking, easy maintenance deck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 09-11-2007
Jeff_H's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Annapolis, Md
Posts: 6,667
Thanks: 5
Thanked 103 Times in 79 Posts
Rep Power: 10
Jeff_H has a spectacular aura about Jeff_H has a spectacular aura about Jeff_H has a spectacular aura about
I am strongly with Cam on this one. If you are removing the teak decking, I would strongly suggest that you go back with a glass deck. Not only will the glass deck be wildly less expensive but it should also add to the resale value of your boat.

There really isn't a great way to teak over glass decks. Screw down require heavier planking and eventually gets water into the core. Glue down wears out and come apart long before the screw down decks have bit the farm.

If you do remove the teak and go to a glass deck, I would suggest that you use the method recommended by MAS epoxy, which is to level the deck surface, repair any holes, or damaged and delaminated coring. In areas where you have extensive crazing grind down into the existing laminate and lay in cloth and resin and grind fair. Apply a coat of their thinnest viscosity penetrating epoxy to seal any small pores and hairline cracks in the gelcoat. Cover with a coat of a thicker viscosity resin to further seal the surface.

There are various ways to go on the next step but the one that I like is to trowel on a coat of thickened epoxy, and then lay in one of Gibco's non-skid molds, which produces a factory style non-skid pattern. Then paint with Interlux's deck paint system. If you removed and reinstalled the deck hardware yourself, you could probably do that work for not much more than the cost of the round trip shipment from Chicago to Florida.

Respectfully,
Jeff
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 09-11-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2,282
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Rep Power: 9
Rockter will become famous soon enough
I am having to make just these decisions in about 2 months with my olde Union 36, from 1977.

It is not easy.

Teak does look good though, but is it worth it?

I did not know that the "glue-down" stuff lets go so quickly there Jeff.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 09-11-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
The other advantage of leaving the deck glass is the boat will be lighter for it, with a lower center of gravity.
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 09-11-2007
Don Radcliffe
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Cruz
Posts: 396
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
donradclife is on a distinguished road
After 15 years, I had my teak decks replaced in Thailand for $4500 (45 ft boat). The old decks were both screwed and glued with sikaflex. After they took about 1000 screws out, they had to chisel off the glued teak. The glue joint was still so strong that the biggest piece they were able to get off was about the size of a clothespin.

The new decks were put down with sikaflex and no screws--6 years later they still look great, and there is absolutely no sign of glue failure anywhere.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 09-11-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 93
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
sahara is on a distinguished road
A friend had his Mason 53 redecked by TDS, Sarasota.

Beautiful, beautiful work. Several years in and it looks and works terrific.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 09-11-2007
TrueBlue's Avatar
Señor Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Narragansett Bay
Posts: 4,853
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rep Power: 13
TrueBlue is a jewel in the rough TrueBlue is a jewel in the rough TrueBlue is a jewel in the rough
There have been many redecking jobs on older Nauticats, considering they've been building them since the 1960's and still going strong. After forty or so years, when the teak has worn thin - the ONLY option with a Nauticat is too replace the decking with teak. Doing otherwise will seriously lessen the resale value.

Of course, with solid fiberglass decks under the screwed & bunged planks, there's no risk of water intrusion, or rotting balsa, since coring dosen't exist.
__________________
True Blue . . .
sold the Nauticat
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Deck Washdown Systems Sue & Larry Cruising Articles 0 02-23-2004 08:00 PM
Techniques for Removing Teak Decks Sue & Larry Buying a Boat Articles 0 11-24-2003 08:00 PM
Homemade Teak Decks SailNet Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 08-01-2002 09:00 PM
Mounting Deck Hardware Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 06-25-2002 09:00 PM
How to Paint Your Own Deck Don Casey Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 02-04-2002 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:50 AM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.