Varnish, Poly or Epoxy for interior woodworking? - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
 Not a Member? 
  #1  
Old 09-14-2007
scurvy's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: North Conway, NH
Posts: 225
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
scurvy is on a distinguished road
Send a message via AIM to scurvy
Varnish, Poly or Epoxy for interior woodworking?

Just curious what folks thought would be the best preservative for interior woodwork...

Chris
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #2  
Old 09-14-2007
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Rockaway, NJ
Posts: 69
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 12
rheaton is on a distinguished road
Teak oil for teak
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #3  
Old 09-14-2007
SailorMitch's Avatar
Senior Moment
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MD
Posts: 1,931
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
SailorMitch will become famous soon enough
I've used Min-Wax Quick Dry Polyurethane on interior teak. Easy to work with and it looks grreat. Does a good job of protecting the wood, too. Use the gloss level you want. I don't recommend teak oil for anything, but that's just me. It turns dark and I think it's the favorite food of mold and mildew. Varnish would be a second choice. Epoxy is overkill for the interior.

FYI -- I have used Min-Wax Rub-On Poly to touch up the varnish job on my current boat's interior wood. Easy application and it really makes the wood look sharp.
__________________
SailorMitch
Sailing winged keels since 1989.
1.20.09 Bush's last day the end of an error !! Hopefully we still have a constitution and economy left by then.


"Compassion and tolerance are not a sign of weakness, but a sign of strength." The Dalai Lama


good planets are hard to find-- a song by steve forbert


I have but one lamp by which my feet are guided, and that is the lamp of experience. I know no way of judging the future but by the past.-- Patrick Henry.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #4  
Old 09-14-2007
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 501
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 14
Quickstep192 is on a distinguished road
The big enemy of exterior teak is the sun. For interior teak, it doesn't really need any protection unless you want to change its look. If you like the way oil looks, use oil, but your will have to renew it ocassionally. Varnish will hold up a long time inside and look good. On recent models of cruising J boats, they have no wood on the outside, but lots of varnished wood on the inside; looks terrific.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #5  
Old 09-14-2007
RichH's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,981
Thanks: 10
Thanked 90 Times in 82 Posts
Rep Power: 15
RichH will become famous soon enough
HARD (bar top type) VARNISH is best for interiors.
its not soft and flexible like spar varnish, can take 'dings' and abrasive wear fairly bombproof vs. water intrusion, etc.
Usually only available from a paint shop with an ancient proprietor who remembers how to make/blend this stuff (from scratch).
Is gloss only, but requires 'hand-rubbing' (like ALL good varnishes do) after curing .... if you want super-GLOSS are hand-rubbed with Rottenstone and water; If semigloss ... rottenstone and oil; if satin, fine pumice and oil.
Should be 'oil-based'. Tung oil base is probably best.

Straight Oil finishes can be made 'glossier' than varnish but require many 'thick' coats and/but will eventually oxidize and turn dark ..... look at the old sailing ships, thats not black paint on them but oil finishes that totally oxidized. Although oil finishes are easy and look good initially .. there will be a day of reakoning when the oil finish will have to be totally stripped, the wood bleached back to 'color' ... and on that day you will take the oath to varnish only in the future. Oil finishes will ultimately degrade to the apparent 'warmth' of a mausoleum or cave.

Synthetic varnish finishes are a royal bitch to repair if damaged ... usually requiring the WHOLE panel or piece to be totally stripped and re-varnished, etc. I have had good results with "McCluskeys - Tung Seal" a mix of tung oil base and 'synthetics ... plus colorizing 'tints' ... can be hand-rubbed to 'brilliance'.

'French Polished' Shellac is the 'brightest/shiney-est/most glossy' but is not water resistant (water rings) and is a bitch to 're-do'. Found on private jets and ultra-expensive mega-yachts.

Cetol, etc. .... for concrete floors, etc. When buying an expensive used boat where someone used cetol on the interior (and exterior) ... would be an instant 'deal breaker'

HAND-RUBBING develops the 'patina' of the surface wood cells under the finish coat and yields a glowing irridescent effect that is 'dazzling' to the eye.

Last edited by RichH; 09-14-2007 at 04:38 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #6  
Old 09-14-2007
Catalina274me's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vancouver,Wa
Posts: 64
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Catalina274me is on a distinguished road
Why no cetol

Cetol, etc. .... for concrete floors, etc. When buying an expensive used boat where someone used cetol on the interior (and exterior) ... would be an instant 'deal breaker'

Why would this be a deal breaker?
I use cetol on both interior and exterior, is easy to touch up if needed and looks great.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #7  
Old 09-14-2007
Catalina274me's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vancouver,Wa
Posts: 64
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 8
Catalina274me is on a distinguished road
I should have said I use Cetol Marine. If that makes a difference.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #8  
Old 09-15-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
It depends on what the woodwork is in many cases. Ultimate Sole is often used for cabin soles, but the other interior woodwork requires something different, and what you use is often determined by personal preference.

Oil is simple, but gets fairly dirty. Varnish, properly done is beautiful, but takes a lot of effort to maintain IMHO. Cetol or one of the polyureathane finishes is probably the best combination of apperance and ease of maintenance.
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #9  
Old 09-16-2007
Rickm505's Avatar
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 770
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Rickm505 is on a distinguished road
IMHO polyureathane is the only way to go. Wash with water to clean and it will look perfect for 20 years.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
  #10  
Old 09-16-2007
sailingdog's Avatar
Telstar 28
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
Rep Power: 13
sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
Polyureathane is good for some woodwork, but I wouldn't use it for the cabin sole. Polyureathane is pretty slippery when wet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickm505 View Post
IMHO polyureathane is the only way to go. Wash with water to clean and it will look perfect for 20 years.
__________________
Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Low Maintenance Brightwork: Varnish or Linear Polyurethane over Epoxy? Spencer28 Gear & Maintenance 9 09-14-2011 11:44 AM
The Art of Maintaining Brightwork Sue & Larry Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 12-31-1998 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:26 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.