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Working toe rail

5K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  capngregg 
#1 ·
I have a 1977 Irwin 37' which has a teak cap rail. I'm considering removing the teak and replacing it with an aluminum toe rail. What's your thougts on this idea?

The cap rail is about 3" wide. I want a toe rail that is about 1.5" wide with a lip hanging over the outer edge and down about 1" to 3/4". The standup edge should have a continous set of holes for attachments.

Do you know where I can obtain aluminum toe rails?

- michael
 
#2 ·
Is anything wrong with the existing toe rail? If not, I think you're asking for a lot of trouble by removing the teak rail, since it is usually part of the hull-deck join on many boats.
 
#3 ·
I'd be hesitant about replacing it with a narrower one... The cap rail is adding a lot of stiffening to the area. If you do it, do a bit of math first to figure out how much support the wood provides and make sure that the metal replacement has at least as much. i.e.: Make sure that you get metal that is stronger and stiffer than the wood.
 
#4 ·
I gotta agree with the other posters on this - replacing the toerail on a boat would be atl east a difficult job, and not a good one to learn by doing. If you really want an aluminim toerail, you might just sell the Irwin and bauy a different boat with the toerail you like...
 
#6 ·
Therapy-

If the toe rail is going to be slotted and used for attaching blocks and such, it needs to be through-bolted, not screwed to the caprail.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for your suggestions.

There is a section of the toe rail which must be repaired. I'd like to repair it better than it was. I perfer going back with synthetic marials instead of organic materials. Less maintenace.

That is a good recommendation to do the calculations on the modulus of flexure for the 3" x 3/4" teak versus a 1.5"x1.5" angel of aluminum. I think that I have a mechanical engineering handbook in another city with this information.

The join between the deck and hull is under the cap rail. I was suprised that this join seems to be sealed very well. I am expecting to add an additional layer of fiberglass cloth over the join before adding the aluminum rail. I don't think the glass is needed for strength, but would like to insure a water tight seal.

- michael
 
#8 ·
I looking at buying a 1977 Formosa 46. i know it is fixer upper but it's a good price. Over the starboard area about 1/3 from aft the teak deck cap is cracked and leaks rain water and I'm sure sea water on a heel.

What was your experience or 'fix' for your your problem as outlined in your sailnet forum. Did you replace the teak completely? Did you fiberglass over the joint as you were thinking about? I'm not sure how my deck joint 'joins' together.
 
#9 ·
AlaskaBoy-

You'd be better off starting your own thread on your post, rather than trying to hijack this thread.
 
#10 ·
Aluminum Toe Rail

Go to www.RigRite.com and browse their site for toe rails. There is a company in France that manufacturers a variety of profiles in different sizes for various applications but Rig-Rite carries many of them in stock. Go to Sailboat Hardware then click on Toe Rail. Goiot is the manufacturer of this particular product.

I am adding sections to my 22' day sailer so I can rig preventers, whisker pole down haul, etc. The section I selected is special order due to its small size therefore it is a low demand, non stocked item for Rig-Rite.

There is a little bit of information concerning the installation of this product.

Make your boat the way you want it, just follow proper installation procedures and think like an Engineer.

Good Luck!

Gregg
 
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