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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #21  
Old 09-21-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Garhauer also makes a nice setup for what you're doing, and probably at prices lower than the Harken or Lewmar gear. Garhauer is stock on several boat lines, including Catalina now.
Very well. I'll look at Garhauer, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
BTW, depending on how high the traveller is mounted, inverting the cam cleats may or may not be useful.
Our traveller is mounted across the cockpit seats, in front of the companionway. I believe the 1st picture shows that.

We can easily try the cleat both ways. I'm kind of thinking it would be better flipped.

Thanks for your comments, SD.

Jim
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  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
First of all, bigger sheets will make the problem worse as they increase friction and grip in the cleat and are unnecessary.
But sheets that are under-sized are no good, either, right? I believe that's what's being suggested, here: That both the fiddle blocks and the sheet are undersized for our rig.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
As folks have suggested going to ball bearing blocks will help. You might want to go to a 5:1 set up would help as well. (6:1 is too much purchase for the P-30). Using a hexratchet on the last turn also gives you a chance to play the sheet.
I'll keep these in mind as I continue my research. Thanks, Jeff.

Jim
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  #23  
Old 09-21-2007
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I'll second what SD said, Garhauer makes great equipment at an excellent price. However, they didn't make a ratchet block when I bought parts for my mainsheet.

It's been my experience that as long as your sheets are in good shape and made of modern fibers, the size is dictated by what is comfortable to your hand when you're are working the line.
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  #24  
Old 09-21-2007
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I have a 30 foot race boat with a bigger main than a Pearson and find that a 3/8" (10mm) sheet is about right. You could get away witha 5/16" but it would be a little small in the hands. You can go to the Harken site and look in their Technical section and it shows different mainsheet configurations.

When the previous owner moved the traveller to the mid boom position that added a lot more loading on the main sheet so that is likely why the original no bearing blocks are a very poor idea now.

Anyone of the 3 manufactures already mentioned will work fine. Garhauser tends to be less expensive and is really nice stuff.

I just got a set of quad deck oragnizers and am putting them on today. They are top quality and very pretty.

I also found out that if you remove the through bolt the sheeves will slide out and you will have 60 little ball bearings all over the floor of your van.

Gary

Last edited by Gary M; 09-21-2007 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 09-21-2007
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Getting rid of the high friction blocks will make a big difference, and as Jeff says going to 6:1 is overkill on a 30 footer.

But you could add a small 3 or 4 part tackle where the bitter end of the sheet attaches, and use that as a fine tune - you'd only get about 8-10 inches more travel, but at 12 or 16:1, there should be no problems getting the last few inches of trim and you won't have miles of sheet on the cockpit floor.

I've got this on our large-mainsail 34 footer, and though it's marginal for our boat it does work, much better than the undersized 4 part that the boat came with.
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Old 09-21-2007
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Originally Posted by Gary M View Post
I also found out that if you remove the through bolt the sheeves will slide out and you will have 60 little ball bearings all over the floor of your van.

Gary
At least they're someplace you can get to them...rather than say, in your bilge or on the sea floor.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
For Giu's boat, where the traveller is mounted on the cockpit sole, it makes a lot of sense to invert it, since you'd have to drop to your knees to cleat it otherwise.
SD I don't have a cleat or a similar system on my boat. I just posted that photo so he could see Lewmar R1 as an example.

However, on a previous boat, I had the traveller at the entrance of the companion way, and when de-cleating, I had to yank the sheet downwards. Sometimes, people sitting near would get their legs hit by the sheet.

So inverting the cleat was the solution, and just yank the sheet upwards out of the cleat's jaws.

Jim, Lewmar 80mm fidddle, becket, cam and cleat with 10mm sheets is the exact thing for you..
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SemiJim, your current main sheet blocks are Schaefer so since the traveller is a new Harken, they are definitely carry overs. I have a similar Schaefer system on my 30 foot Cal's main (but with 2 spaced single blocks on the boom) and have no problem sheeting in in strong winds or getting the sheet out of the camcleat. My traveller is in a similar location to yours and my sheets are 3/8 inch. My boat does however have a smaller main than the P30 and sheeting is end-boom, not mid-boom. If yours is mid-boom, that would increase the loads. I would go with the best quality low-friction blocks you can afford.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giulietta View Post
So inverting the cleat was the solution, and just yank the sheet upwards out of the cleat's jaws.
I would think it would be easier to get the sheet out of the cleat, pulling up, rather than down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Giulietta View Post
Jim, Lewmar 80mm fidddle, becket, cam and cleat with 10mm sheets is the exact thing for you..
I'd like to go with the 80mm, but that system is more than twice as expensive as the 60mm system. I think I'm going to have to try the 60mm system and hope that's enough. That and new 3/8" line.

Looks like I'm going to have to order it, whatever I go with. None of the local stores have either the 60mm or 80mm stuff in stock, anyway.

Darn, I was rather looking forward to doing this today. Oh well...

Jim
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Hey Jim, as ice will be setting in in Michigan in a week or two .... why not wait until offer the winter, you'll get a better deal.
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