Painting the hull

[dorourke]

Last year I used Poly Glow to get some sort of color and shine out of my severely faded gelcoat. Although rather pleased with it, I am seariously thinking about painting the hull in the spring and am starting to do my research and homework early this year. I've heard the roll and tip method works well, however what paint do I use?, Imron or Awlgrip (I think that's how it's spelled,) I also read about polyeurithane paint. Can someone square me up? Has anyone else done this? Would I regret getting into it?

[sailingdog]

If you're going to use a two-part Linear Polyurethane paint, like Awlgrip, Imron or Awlcraft, I would go with the Awlcraft, and I would highly recommend that you remove as much of the deck hardware as possible.

Just remember the hardest part of any painting job is the prep work. If you don't do the prep work properly, the paint job won't last, regardless of how carefully it is applied or how expensive it is.

The reason I recommend the Awlcraft over the Awlgrip/Imron is it is easier to repair and maintain IMHO. There have been several threads about this in the past year.

Rolling and tipping works quite well, provided you thin the paint properly. I wouldn't recommend spraying, since most of the LPU paints use a cyanide based catalyst, which requires using special gear.

[camaraderie]

You might want to look at Perfection instead of the Awlgrip/Imron if you are going to roll and tip it yourself.

[NOLAsailing]

I would disagree - Awlgrip can be rolled effectively and, to my mind, there isn't a better paint for boats. It is tough to touch up, but so are almost all two-part LPU (linear polyurethane) paints.

However, any two-part finish will look great and require about the same amount of work to apply. Which one is most durable, shinier etc. is something we can debate until Christmas.

That said, there is a vast difference between the two-part LPU's, like Awlgrip, Perfection, Imron, etc and the one parts, like Interlux Brightsides. The one parts have good initial shine, but they will noticeably fade within two years and have about half the service life of a two part system.

Also, I'll echo Sailingdog's warning about spraying the two-parts. They contain isocyanate which can be inhaled when the spraying atomizes the paint. It can literally be fatal.

The key to rolling and tipping is speed. Do not try and do it yourself. One helper is essential, three is ideal: one rolling, one tipping, one in charge of mixing and maintaining the correct ratios.

The hardest part of two-part paints is keeping it properly thinned. Mix enough to do one hull section (stbd, port, transom) and monitor how the paint feels as you tip it out. The thinner will evaporate. When you have a new batch, test it on a piece of scrap to make sure the paint levels. As you paint, if you find the tipping brush dragging through the paint, add some more thinner; if you are getting runs, you have too much thinner.

If you do have a run, it is probably best to leave it and address as you prep for the next coat. Also, for the Awlgrip (which is the only 2 part I'm familiar with) the primer coats are very tough to level out. You will almost certainly have brush strokes. It is, in my opinion, easier to get it as close to perfect as you can, and then sand the brush strokes out before proceeding. Other system's primers may be easier to level (but I still like Awlgrip).

Finally, be sure you get all of the PoliGlow off the hull prior to sanding. As an acrylic, it might contaminate the glass if you grind it in with sandpaper. Use their PoliPrep (or whatever they call their cleaning solution) and then follow up with a solvent before you start grinding.

Would I regret getting into it?

Almost certainly - while you're sanding away. However, as soon as you're done I promise you'll have no regrets. There is no faster or better way to transform the appearance of your boat.

[StoneAge]

One other tip I could mention is that when tipping, go up and down the hull from gunwale to bootstripe. That way, if there are brushmarks, they are less noticeable because everyone will be looking for them fore and aft. Plus it's easier to keep a wet edge that way.

Roll a section (thin foam roller), have a partner tip it (foam brush 3 - 4" wide). Just with enough pressure to get the bubbles out. DO NOT DO THIS BY YOURSELF!!!!! Remember too, many thin coats (3 - 7) aways looks better than 2 thick ones. Takes longer, but after painting our old Grampian this way, I could literally see the guy bending over working on the boat next door while looking at the Grampy's new paint job. Shine was about 4 - 6 feet deep.

That was 4 years ago. She has new owners, (we moved up) but the hull still looks GREAT!!!!

Best of luck.
John

[robfinora]

I am only going to comment on the fact that there is poli glow on the hull right now. I would really research how to get the poli glo off the hull prior to painting. Poli glow works by bulding up layers in older-porious gel coat. Check with the manufacture to make sure you follow the right steps on removal or else all prepping for the paint will be a waste of time.

Rob

[sailingdog]

Rob-

PoliGlow sells a cleaner specifically formulated to remove their product IIRC.

[Faster]

Poliglow does sell their PoliPrep, a pre-treatment cleaner and, if more concentrated, a Poliglow remover. As a remover it is slow acting, and will take a long time. Also, if not liberally rinsed away immediately, the poliglow that was "removed" will reattach as it dries.

I think it would take many go-rounds with Poliprep to be sure that all the poliglow was actually removed.

Some paint removers (even a "green" one such as Aquastrip) will also remove the poliglow, perhaps more effectively. You would be wise to do several pre-paint solvent washes as recommended by the paint company after all poliglow has been (allegedly) removed. Also it's probably even more important than ever to take the time to do a test patch to make sure that the paint will take.

Most 2 part suppliers provide reducers and activators that are specially formulated for roll and tip application - and you'll likely get better results if you use them as recommended.

[sailseahawk]

I painted (roll & tip) the hull of my Columbia 26 several years ago. I was very pleased with the results. I used the interlux 2 part (interthane?). It was painted midnight blue, with a blood red stripe and gold pinstripe. It was truly an eye catcher. The Midnight blue was difficult to work with. I would avoid a dark color if I had to do it again. You cannot tell it was roll & tipped unless you are closer than 6 feet, and even then, you would have to really be a boat critic to notice. The brush marks were very slight. Everyone thought I sprayed it.

I used Don Casey's book on painting like a cookbook. Don't take one single shortcut, just do what it says. Oh yeah, fork out the bucks for the badger hair brush. It is cheep compaired to the cost of the paint, and I compaired different brushes. Badger is the best.

My 26 foot boat with a crazed/cracked gel coat took a lot of work. If I did it again, I would have rolled a coat of epoxy over the hole thing before I started with the primer. It took a lot of filler and primer to smooth it out. For the deck, I did roll on a coat of West System prior to primer, and then used single part white paint. I was pleased with the results.

If I ever do it again, I would paint a light color, only rolling it on (no tipping), leaving an "orange peel" finish. Another boat in the marina did that, and it looked very good, and had the virtue of being "repairable". It could also be scrubbed pretty hard. You can always try the technique on a dingy or a piece of glass and see if you like the results.

SPRAYING TWO PART IS DEADLY! Don Casey's book explains it all.

When it came to re-paint my current 46' boat, I did have it professionally sprayed. Just too time consuming a project for a do it yourselfer. I think 30-36 feet is about as big as I would care to try, but bigger can be done!

I will see if I can find that photo of the boat up on stands, showing a reflection of the whole row of boats in the yard. It looked really good.

Oh yeah. 1 helper works with difficulty, 2 would be better!

[kwaltersmi]

I've researched painting my hull on the internet and at the library (most useful are Don Casey's books). I'll be using Interlux Brightsides when I paint the hull and deck in the spring. My choice is best on budget and ease of application. If my boat were more valuable or my budget more flexible, I would use a two-part paint. Based on the current condition of my hull and deck, any new paint will look great and be an improvement (at least initially).