Best tool for cutting fiberglass cockpit seat - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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The Roto-zip is crap. (sorry SD). I spent way too much time, energy, and money on the damn thing. It finally found its way into the trash. I can't even stand to give it away.

Great men always have too much sail up. - Christopher Buckley


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post #12 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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Please note, I said like the RotoZip... Most people have heard of the RotoZip, but the later variants, like the one I have from Bosch and Sailormann's MasterCraft, are much better.
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The Roto-zip is crap. (sorry SD). I spent way too much time, energy, and money on the damn thing. It finally found its way into the trash. I can't even stand to give it away.

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post #13 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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I would imagine Bosch would do a good fix on it. Go Pats!

Great men always have too much sail up. - Christopher Buckley


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27-10 in the Pats favor, with 13 minutes to go in the fourth quarter... GO PATS is right...

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post #15 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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Friends of mine, won on the Cal game, parlayed to the Raiders, won on that, parlayed to the Pats, winning on that. Gotta go borrow some money, be right back....(The War is on, better than the game, its over.)

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post #16 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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Rotozips are for cutting holes in sheetrock.Use a jigsaw or Sawzall with metal blades.
Spend the extra buck and get the Milwaukee blades.Don't waste your time or your armature the cheap crap.

Last edited by sharkbait; 10-01-2007 at 11:20 PM.
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BTW, if you're cutting fiberglass, using a full-face mask respirator, like a 3M 6000 series is a good idea. The little fiberglass particles can get airborne and aren't very good to inhale and worse to get in your eyes...

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post #18 of 19 Old 10-01-2007
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The rotary style tools, including routers, are what I have seen in numerous fiberglass shops. Either a router bit or a diamond cut burr are used for the tools. If the glass is thin, without a wood core, the burr would work well. If it is thicker you want to use a saber saw with a fine tooth blade or a router.

Fiberglass is terribly abrasive. One of the things that causes your tool to wear out extra fast is if you run RPMs too high. It tends to rub itself out. You want to be sure that you are taking a healthy cut, advancing fast enough,not so much as to cause flaking but enough so you make a courser chip instead of dust. There are router bits made specifcally for laminated materials so they don't cause the flaking out on the top or bottom, called compresion or herringbone cutters. http://www.robbjack.com/pdf/RJWood3.pdf
The ones shown here are very high precision and expensive. I sell these for use on CNC equipment. I'm sure someone like Onsrud or others make them cheaper. The idea with these is that the bottom of the cutter pushes up and the top pushes down, Compressing the material so that you don't get the flaking, chipping on the edges. Works slick. These would work if you have wood core. I have used them on my Bosch router at home on 3/4" ply wood..

The tape idea is good

Good luck


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post #19 of 19 Old 10-02-2007
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Whether you end up using a rotary tool or a sabre saw, a template will make it much easier to cut straight lines. Measure the distance between the edge of the tool's base and the blade, then cut a hole in a scrap board that is this much bigger than the hole you want to make. Having something solid to run the tool against makes it much easier to cut a perfect line, especially using a squirrely rotary tool or router. You do still have to tape the cut line to limit chipping. This is how undermount sink holes are cut perfectly into countertops.

The extra challenge in doing this on a cockpit seat is finding a way to temporarily attach the template to the seat.
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