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  #11  
Old 12-28-2009
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Hi Seas Diesel Heater trouble

To all who have posted info about needing an owner’s manual for a HI-SEAS DIESEL HEATER, I have one, yet I still can't get my heater to work. I'm thinking it might be a faulty diesel fuel pump. When I hook up my meter though, I get a reading, yet I don't seem to get any fuel in the bottom of the burner. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2009
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Having stripped and rebuilt the heater, I have yet to try it. Having never used the heater beforehand, I don't know what to expect in terms of fuel flow when set to the maximum setting, but on turning on the 12V DC supply to the motor, I only hear a pulse every few seconds. Not sure whether this is normal at this stage.

I will keep you posted on results.

Best regards,

Charlie.
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2009
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Hi Seas Marine Heater

First off, get and read, read, read, the manual, I've been through it about 20 times now, and I'm still getting new information out of it. There is a lot of info buried in there. I've torn my metering block apart and cleaned it entirely, and can see where things can get "jammed up" causing a fuel blockage. The manual refers to them as well. If you're not getting fuel into the combustion chamber it seems like one or more of the following (I always hate the "or more" part, but on old boats with old systems, it seems to happen a lot.): Plugged fuel line-probably not, but it happens. Undocumented valve closed-the older the boat, the more likely this becomes. Bad/dirty filter, don't forget the one inside the base of the meetering block. Bad fuel pump, including electricle. Plugged orifice-requires disassembly of metering block to clear. Kinked, carboned, or otherwise blocked 1/8" fuel delivery line. I would brake the line loose of the downstream side of the fuel pump, and start there, reataching and checking for fuel flow along the way. Chalie was talking about his pump pulsing every few seconds. I think that is fairly normal, have seen it happen on cars with similar pumps, but I think its also important to shut off the pump, and have a fuel shutoff valve turned off when the heater is not in operation.
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Old 12-29-2009
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Hi Seas Marine Heater

Just re-read your first post. Sometimes I open my mouth to soon. Sorry. Since it sound like your pump is working, and if we assume it is, then it's probably either the filter in the base, the orafice, or the fuel dilivery line. And after thinking about it a bit, it could also be a defective or miss adjusted pressure regulator. There is still the chance of a valve, or filter between the pump and heater being the culprit. Assuming you've checked for those, my favorite will be the metering block or the filter in the base. As either will require disasembly to fix, I'd go through the whole thing. Be prepared to spend some time looking for all the O-rings needed to put it back together. As for the 1/8" stainless line, I thought it would be a chore to locate, but I found exactly the thing in the craft section of the hardware store, in the display with all of the brass, copper, aluminum, and stainless craft tubing. Standard 1/8" ferrels finish off the job perfectly.
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Old 12-30-2009
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Hi Seas Marine Heater

After posting here yesterday, I got really inspired to go home and finish reinstalling my heater. Lo and behold, I experienced both conditions you gentlemen where experiencing. My pump runs all the time, and no fuel delivered to the wick. I think the pump isue is normal as there is no leakage. The fuel delivery isue however, turned out to be the orifices, as I expected. What I didn't expect though, was the apperance, upon even close inspection (though I didn't have my glasses on), that the orifices where open. I could see light throught all three holes. It was, however, rose colored light. The fuel had solidified in the ports, and took quite an effort to remove, had to "pound" it out with a needle. Once the resin was removed, and heater reassembled, fuel delivered at once, and fired up with no issues at all. Ran it for 3 hours, fine tuning the fuel delivery to get the best burn. Shut down was uneventfull, and I'm a very happy camper. Charlie, I'm not sure if my wick is working as well as it should, only got to about 300, and it was easy to over fuel the wick, as you could see fuel dripping out onto the starter wick, then I would have to back the delivery back down. Will be very interested in how your material ends up working.

All the best,

Dan
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Old 12-30-2009
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Thanks Dan; cool, you got it working. Today I ended up buying a new fuel pump. It's a Facet automotive electric fuel pump. I couldn't seem to get the old one to work. The only thing with the new one is at the side of the filter housing that receives the fuel first before going through the filter, which in turn screws into the pump is designed to receive the fuel through flexible rubber tubing. The original old one receives fuel through rigid tubing, so I'll have to remove a section of the rigid tubing and replace it with rubber tubing. Once I insure fuel gets to the heater, I can discover if it works or needs attention, perhaps similar to the fixes you described. P.S.; Do you know any reason why rubber tubing shouldn,t be used?
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Old 12-31-2009
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Hi Seas Marine Heater

Generally, I think it comes down to personal preference. I can think of quite a few factors though, if this were a new installation. You already have an installed system, so for simplicity, my preference would be use what you've got. I'd cut a smidge off the end of the steel line, flare it a bit to give the "jumper" hose something to grip, and jumper with a couple inches of fuel grad hose, clamp it down, and call it good. Good rule of thumb I heard a while back about hose clamps is; The rubber should just start to pucker through the grooves in the clamp, any tighter and you're ruining both the clamp and the hose. If it still leaks at this "tightness," there are other problems (burs, improper size, etc...). For a new installation, a properly "engineered" steel line installation should outlast rubber by a long shot, and look much more professional. I say engineered, because there are several considerations that will make the difference between success, and a lot of heart ache. Routing is always a problem with steel lines, more so in boats; Rubber really shines in this area. Steel lines must be secured to avoid vibration damage, both to themselves, and adjacent items. If steel lines are connected directly to equipment (like your fuel pump) there must not be any tension, (they should slip together and bolt up with no profanity), otherwise undue pressure is put on the flare and fitting, and failure will occur, (again, not a problem with rubber). While all this, so far, sounds like rubber is the way to go, rubber breaks down (becomes hard and brittle) over time depending on what's in it, and the environment it is in, so it WILL be a maintenance item as long as you own the equipment.
Hope this helps you decide which path to take. In the end, I usually end up going with what's there unless its total junk, or I can see problems down the way.
All the best,
Dan
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Old 02-16-2010
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Hi-seas Diesel Heater

Dan and Charlie,

I just came across your discussion. I would love to have a copy of that manuel if you still have access to it. I too have an old model 100 that has never worked and would like to try and get some heat out of it.

Please send me a copy to smithd9 AT gmail DOT com. Thanks. I would really appreciate it!
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Old 03-31-2010
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Marine Heat Corp diesel heater

Dan and Charlie,
Just saw this thread. I just bought a 1966 Islander 29, which has this heater, but there is no manual! I would sure like to get a manual, if one of you could email it, I would be very grateful. My email is spoling at olympus dot net.
Thank you, Mitch Poling, Port Townsend, WA
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Old 07-25-2010
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Hi Charlie,

Just happened across this thread. I have an Islander 29 that came with a Marine Heat Corp stove that I have not gotten to work yet. I would be very interested in a copy of that manual you mentioned!
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