Sticky Deck Question - SailNet Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 16 Old 10-11-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
Sticky Deck Question

I have discovered that an area of deck to the right of my front hatch on the starboard side moves slightly when stepped on. When pushed down you can hear the sticky sound. The area is about a ft square.
In checking this out I have found a similar area inside the cabin. This area is the main cabin, just aft of the wall that separates the head from the salon. This also is on the starboard side. The headliner is fiberglassed.
This area has a larger void area but also is very tacky when pushed up against the core. My question is can this just turn loose over time or do I have a wet core problem. Sounding with a hammer it does not sound wet but I am not that knowledgable in this area. What would be the repair method if this needs correcting. The boat is a 77 Dufour 31.
Neicy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
Senior Member
 
NOLAsailing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mandeville, LA
Posts: 504
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 9
 
It is possible that the outer skin delaminated and the core is still intact, but that is unlikely. The easiest way of checking the core is to drill a test hole. You can go from the top or bottom, but only go through one of the skins into the core. If it is wet, you'll know. Good core is bright and dry.

There have been a number of recent threads on core repair, I suggest searching for those and, if you still have questions, updating this thread.

-Jason

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
NOLAsailing is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 16 Old 10-11-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
How large of a hole should I drill to be able to see the core? From the inside this would be the V berth but it is not tacky from the inside in this area, but I supposse if it is wet you would know from either side. I also thought about removing the front hatch to see if anything is visible from there.
Neicy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
moderate?
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 16
     
Neicy...I would go in from the top side with a 1/4" drill bit...the drill bit will pull our core material as you drill. Dry=good...wet and rotted =bad.
I would start my first hole on the "uphill" part of the area in question. If you find rot...you can work your way downhill with additional holes to see how extensive the area is. If it is only a few inches...you can try injecting epoxy with a syringe. If it is more expansive...it will be more expensive.
camaraderie is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #5 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
Senior Member
 
Freesail99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,507
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Send a message via Yahoo to Freesail99
If you drill the 1/4 hole you can use a Alan key ( spelling ? ) in a drill on a very slow speed to widen up the inside of the hole without making the 1/4 hole any larger. The short end of the Alan key would be going into the hole. By doing this, you increase the volume of the inside of the hole, allowing more epoxy to be added to the hole and increasing it's strength.

S/V Scheherazade
-----------------------
I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Freesail99 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #6 of 16 Old 10-11-2007 Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 139
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 11
 
I am assuming by the answers that I should only concern myself with the sticky area on top deck and not worry with the other area that is in the cabin. The interior area has a much longer push before the sticky, and it also is in a totally different area of the boat.
I also want to make sure it is better to puncture the exterior instead of the interior at the V berth. It seems this is what you are suggesting. I do hate to go drilling holes in the deck but if that is the best way to proceed I will give it a try. I did contact West Systems about the epoxy and the guy on the phone suggested removing the hatch and taking a look from there. However removing a hatch is no small feat its self. Thanks for the suggestions to deal with this matter.
Neicy is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #7 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
moderate?
 
camaraderie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: East Coast
Posts: 13,877
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Rep Power: 16
     
Actually..a leaky hatch may be at the root of any delamination/core rot...so if you find rot in your first test hole near the hatch...you should probably remove and rebed the hatch or the problem will return. It also may be easier to dig the rot out from the hatch side.

You should not be concerned about interior fiberglass unless the exterior in the same place is soft as well. Best approach is from the outside in your case I think.
camaraderie is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #8 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
I don't recommend this technique for anything larger than about a square foot in size. The epoxy is heavier and doesn't add as much strength as properly rebuilding the laminate by re-coring it would. IMHO, if the core is rotted to any degree, you're much better off re-coring the deck in that area—rather than doing a bubble-gum and baling wire repair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freesail99 View Post
If you drill the 1/4 hole you can use a Alan key ( spelling ? ) in a drill on a very slow speed to widen up the inside of the hole without making the 1/4 hole any larger. The short end of the Alan key would be going into the hole. By doing this, you increase the volume of the inside of the hole, allowing more epoxy to be added to the hole and increasing it's strength.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #9 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
Senior Member
 
Freesail99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,507
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 10
 
Send a message via Yahoo to Freesail99
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
I don't recommend this technique for anything larger than about a square foot in size. The epoxy is heavier and doesn't add as much strength as properly rebuilding the laminate by re-coring it would. IMHO, if the core is rotted to any degree, you're much better off re-coring the deck in that area—rather than doing a bubble-gum and baling wire repair.
If you re-read his post, the area is 1 foot sq.

S/V Scheherazade
-----------------------
I had a dream, I was sailing, I was happy, I was even smiling. Then I looked down and saw that I was on a multi-hull and woke up suddenly in a cold sweat.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Freesail99 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #10 of 16 Old 10-11-2007
Telstar 28
 
sailingdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 43,290
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Rep Power: 14
         
FS-

He's actually talkng about two different areas. One area is estimated to be about a square foot in size, but he hasn't drilled into the laminate to figure out its exact size yet. The second area is larger than the first, and therefore is larger than a square foot and will probably be better treated differently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freesail99 View Post
If you re-read his post, the area is 1 foot sq.

Sailingdog

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
sailingdog is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.


User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Deck Washdown Systems Sue & Larry Cruising Articles 0 02-23-2004 07:00 PM
Techniques for Removing Teak Decks Sue & Larry Buying a Boat Articles 0 11-24-2003 07:00 PM
Mounting Deck Hardware Tom Wood Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 06-25-2002 08:00 PM
How to Paint Your Own Deck Don Casey Gear and Maintenance Articles 0 02-04-2002 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome