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post #11 of 14 Old 10-20-2007
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New boat for us, and the genset's westerbeke is in need of a starter solenoid, which I wouldn't get to before winter....is it possible to use air pressure to blow out the raw water cooling side, instead of drawing in antifreeze? Can the block be drained?
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-20-2007
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Originally Posted by TrueBlue View Post
John - You're correct regarding thermostat location, but I wasn't taking any chances with the new-to-me boat. My last boat did not have a heat exchanger and was raw water cooled . . . this stubborn old dog can't be taught new tricks I suppose.

I neglected to mention that the real reason for running the engine to normal operating temp, was to fully warm the oil for draining and replacement with fresh oil. I prefer to do this during layup to eliminate most of the sulphuric acid, formed from the sulphur which is present in oil and in the diesel exhaust . . . not especially good for your engine.

Of course, engine pencil zinc anodes are also changed along with oil and fuel primary/secondary filters - naturally, before filling the crankcase with new oil. Biocide added to fuel tanks, electrical connections cleaned and sprayed, battery electrolyte topped off . . . etc.

But now I'm wandering into other boat winterization topics - perhaps more info than the OP asked for.

True Blue,

Truth be told, with our first boat I did exactly as you described for a couple years until someone pointed out the heat exchanger/thermostat issue. All the other engines I had previously assisted with winterizing were raw water cooled, so the heat exchanger twist was new to me.

But you're right, for all the reasons you described it would be good to heat the engine up. I usually take the boat for a hard spin under power after completing those tasks to make sure the new lubricants and additives are fully circulated prior to lay-up. Then the antifreeze gets added.

Capnhand,

We usually leave the boat in the water for the winter anyway. But when it does get hauled, our marina has a push/pull boat with which they move the boats to the travellift, as most boats are winterized prior to haul-out.
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post #13 of 14 Old 10-20-2007
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The annual winterization for my raw water cooled Universal for the last 18 years has been:
1. Run engine on fresh water until warm.
2. Drain fresh water and fill with antifreeze.
3. Change oil and filter.
4. Change Racor fuel filter.
5. Change transmission oil.
6. Spray fog into air inlet while cranking engine slowly.

Haven't had a problem yet and she starts easily each spring.
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post #14 of 14 Old 05-09-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimsCAL View Post
The annual winterization for my raw water cooled Universal for the last 18 years has been:
1. Run engine on fresh water until warm.
2. Drain fresh water and fill with antifreeze.
3. Change oil and filter.
4. Change Racor fuel filter.
5. Change transmission oil.
6. Spray fog into air inlet while cranking engine slowly.

Haven't had a problem yet and she starts easily each spring.
Short and to the point. Thank you!

Dan
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