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Running Rigging Layouts?

15K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  SailNet Archive 
#1 ·
Hello all,

Was wondering if some here might be up to posting pics and maybe a small explanation of how their running rigging is laid out. For example, do you lead all lines to the cockpit, or leave halyards, ect at the mast? I am running through different variations on how to re-rig my boat (Grampian 26). Sailing will be primarily single-handed, or with small crew. I would like to have all lines led through turning blocks aft to the cockpit, but have heard several good arguments for both sides. Anyway, thanks for any input anyone has!
 
#2 ·
I have just finalized how I am going to set mine up. I just installed new Garhauser quad halyard organizers on each side. I am in the process of going to all rope halyards.
I am eliminating the existing pole topping lift and using the spare jib halyard for it. I have Lewmar triple D2 halyard clutches on each side of the cabin. If you are single handed my opinion you definitely want most everything lead aft.
I will have the main and primary jib halyard and the main cunningham on the port side in the clutch. The vang will come down that side to a cam cleat at the aft lip of the cabin.

On the starboard side I will have the spinnaker halyard, the main outhaul then the outboard reef in the clutches. I have the pole topping lift in a cam cleat at the aft lip of the cabin and the pole down in a cam cleat on the side of the cabin. For the inboard reef point when I need it I will use the cunningham line, rerouting it is the only thing I will have to leave the cockpit for. Normally I race with a full crew but I want to start some double handed and single handed racing so I want every thing very handy.

If I was Alex I would photo shop a pretty picture but I am not that talented :)

Hope you can follow this description.

Gary
 
#3 ·
I still prefer having most of my controls on the mast although I do want to bring the vang line back to the cockpit. I'm in two minds about the main halyard and reefing lines as I like to be at the mast as I raise the sail and with my setup I still need to go forward to drop the main cringle onto the horn when I reef.

Also, cos I don't like the lines beating against the sail I bring my topping lift and lazy jack lines forward to the mast once the main is up. Ergo there is not much point in having topping lift brought back to cockpit either.
 
#7 ·
Also, cos I don't like the lines beating against the sail I bring my topping lift and lazy jack lines forward to the mast once the main is up. Ergo there is not much point in having topping lift brought back to cockpit either.
All my lines come back to the cockpit, much as GaryM described. It makes sailing short / single handed easier.

I don't have lazyjack lines rigged, but I'm considering this for when the boat is back in the water. I would like to be able to be able to retract the lazyjack lines to the mast for the same reason as tdw. Is there a way to run them so I can do this from the cockpit?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Bermuda here are a few photos of a boat that has ALL the lines coming to the cockpit.

This boat has a slightly complicated arrangment but if you look carefully you will understand it.

It has:

2 halyards for the main
2 halyards for the spi
2 halyards for the genoa
1 boom jack (no vang)
1 reef
1 outhaul
1 cuningham
1 extra Cuningham (for emergency)
2 Roler lines (continuous line so you have 2 lines)
2 spi uphauls
2 spidownhauls
2 spi pole lines
2 genoa track lines
2 genoa sheets
2 main sail sheets
1 backstay at the rear
2 Barber haulers for the spi
etc.

The boat in the photos has a rather expensive arrangment due to the nature of the blocks and gear used, but it serves the purpose of giving you an idea of what can be done.

you will need several blocks at the mast, don't use the ones in the photo they're expensive, use regular blocks with springs to keep them upright.
You may attach them to the mast collar ot to the cabin top with respective becking plates underneath. Sometimes, if you have a keel stepped mast you will require the installation of a rod, inside the cabin, to prevent the cabin from "curling" up caused by tension in the mast blocks. You will also need organizers. They are the black "rulers" you see laying down on the cabin top to redirect the lines aft



Mast foot blocks and organizers



You will need clutches as above and cam cleats to hold and secure the lines



The photo above shows that in this case there are two sets of deck organizers to distribute load better



Here above a front view of the arrangment



And a rear view

If you have more questions I can draw a "map" of the lines for you.
 
#13 ·
Hartley yes it does. My boom jack runs to the winch. Everything on my boat was very well calculated, and this system is strong, lightweight and prevents idiots from over tightening the boom jack. In fact NO ONE is allowede to touch my boom jack, only I trim it.

We generally call Giu's boat the Floating Spaghetti Monster... ;)
Photoshop????

What do you mean "boom jack no vang" ?
Means I don't have AND don't want a ridgid vang that supports the boom.. not for me...many reasons..

I don't have lazyjack lines rigged, but I'm considering this for when the boat is back in the water. I would like to be able to be able to retract the lazyjack lines to the mast for the same reason as tdw. Is there a way to run them so I can do this from the cockpit?
Cap...after reading this and your other thread, I replied to it. please see link hereI hope it helps you and others.

If you have quastions ask.
 
#8 ·
We generally call Giu's boat the Floating Spaghetti Monster... ;)
 
#9 ·
CapnHand - since the only time you really need to mess with the lazy jacks underway is to tighten them for dropping the sail, I don't lead mine aft. Loosening them and tying them out of the way you can do while not underway.
 
#11 ·
The photos are very close to the set up on my boat and the arrangement we are putting on board the boat we are just setting up now.

We have 13 lines coming off the mast, of which 12 run back to the cockpit for use with the cabin-top winches, clutches and cleats. (The spin downhaul is mast controlled, that way the person actually doing the end-for-end jibe can be the one to knock off the downhaul and reset it when they are ready. The boat has a baby stay, so no dip-pole jibes, even if she was big enough).

We also have a downhaul for the headsail running along the staunchions to the cockpit, set up for tweakers on the spinnaker sheets and the backstay adjuster which lives right at the back of the cockpit.

All of this is on a 24foot boat, just to put things in perspective....Talk about floating spaghetti monster!


Sasha
 

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#14 ·
I think Gui just likes showing off all those bowline knots!

I wanted to put the new traveler I got from Garhaurer on the cabin top but was talked out of it. So we just replaced the old one which was in front of the companion way. Glad I left it there. , I can manage the main from behind the wheel. If nothing else Just having the main halyard back to the cockpit is great.
 
#16 ·
I see that most layouts have the boom topping lift lead down and aft. What I do on my boat is I have one 1/4" line that comes down from the mast head and ties off at the end of the boom. It is a few inches longer than where the boom sits when sailing.
Then when we drop the main the boom sags down a few inches which makes furling the main easier. When the main is furled we move the main halyard to the outboard end of the boom and use it to raise the boom to an appropriate height.

We never touch the topping lift and save some weight aloft and eliminate one more line at the mast base. I like it :)

Gary
 
#17 ·
Gary, that is/was the current setup on the 24ooter we are transforming now....I did not like it very much as a system, but that could just be personal taste. Since we managed to pick up a rigid boom vang for the 24, I guess the topping lift could have been more or less dispensed with all together, but I had already built the custom mast-head and designed it in, had the Spectra etc...So it got to go in as a belt and suspenders sort of thing, and to be a spare main halyard in case something screwy happens.

As a final thought, having an adjustable topping lift is very usefull if you ever need to use your boom as a gib-arm crane to hoist someone back into the boat out of the water or if you need to tilt the boat to get mast clearence under a bridge or keel clearence off a sandbank.

Sasha
 
#18 ·
#21 ·
I see a photoshopping in your future... ;)
Bermuda,
Try not to buy the cheap hardware you saw in post #4. Quality is worth it in the long run.

(g)
 
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