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  #41  
Old 11-10-2007
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When I decided to triple the house bank size on my boat I knew the stock 60amp internally regulated Delco alternator would not cut it. I found a local shop that builds alternators for emergency vehicles (you know, the kind that have gobs of displays, equipment, and often life support systems powered up and running all the time). This thing is rated at 110 amps continuous output. I had them make a simple mod to take an external regulator, a 3 stage charge controller I bought. Cost of the unit? About $105.
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  #42  
Old 10-15-2008
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Sounds like a pretty good deal.
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  #43  
Old 01-25-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoffaLives View Post
The problem is when you are dealing with engine manufacturers (ie Volvo). You can't cross reference the engine to anything else. It's a Vulva and that's it. But if the model is old enough, it is possible that a generic diesel repair shop/parts supplier will be able to reference jobber parts for it at much lower cost. Someone will have to take a trip into the boonies and ask about their engine, and then post here.
BTW, who's in charge here? Who has the god-like authority to start a sticky?
Volvo is Swedish for "You're Screwed." Seriously, some Volvo stuff is good, some is junk, it's all expensive. I have an MD6A in my sailboat. It's not a bad engine, it's the parts that kill you. $165 for a valve?#$$@$$@ c'mon. $107 for a set of rings? Are you kidding me?

The best thing going right now is Kubota. Followed closely by Isuzu. The reality of it is that marinizing isn't that complicated. It basically boils down to water cooled exhaust, heat exchanger, and raw water pump for a diesel. Past that it's all about space constraints and service points.

I've learned alot by looking at bigger boats. The big cruising boats (power) don't mince words about using big truck engines. There are a number of places that make manifolds for them. Seems to really take some digging though.

If you are determined (and hey we are Sailors aren't we?) you can get a Kubota engine. Japan has very strict emissions requirements. So the engines get yanked after 3 years and sent here. A few companies specialize in this and the engines aren't very expensive. Parts are DIRT Cheap. Beta Marine and Universal/Westerbeke use Kubota pretty extensively. So if you buy the block you can get the other few parts from them. Rumor is that Beta won't sell them to you... or you'll pay $1000 for the exhaust manifold.

I honestly don't know why you have to have a water cooled exhaust manifold. That just seems to be begging for trouble. I don't understand why you can't run a hot exhaust with a injection elbow 5" away.

the stock Kubota Z500 (Westerbeke 5411/M15) exhaust manifold is $80. That's a brand new price!

Moyer marine is another source that deserves kudos. He specializes in Atomic Bombs... but he will readily admit that the same things apply. His prices are very reasonable for the things you can't make yourself. Although why on earth would you pay $45 for some galvanized pipe and nipples? umm here sailor sailor sucker.

Anyway, Moyer has solved alot of these issues for the Atomic 4 so you can apply them to other small marine blocks.

I really don't see why someone isn't selling a conversion kit with instructions.

My experience so far is that most "marine experts" border on scam artists. There are some gems out there, but probably 60% of the "experts" are shifty and overpriced. I had two "experts" condemn my MD6a as "dead"... that was 2 years ago. It is certainly cranky, but not dead.

As for tractor repair.... most small construction equipment uses the same power plants. little 20 to 50 hp kubota etc diesels. If you are willing to tear down the engine and bring the head and block to a shop, there are machine shops that specialize in this and will do the "hard" specialized work for reasonable prices. By hard work I mean the milling and valve grinding.

The trick to identifying your Kubota block is to look for it's serial number. Kubota has a nice page on this. The japanese page is much better (link surprssed by forum)

The dipstick has the model number engraved on it for some reason on Kubotas. This is the simplest place to find your model. The first character of the serial number denotes the year of manufacture. The second is the month. My block is Z500-2Bxxx Meaning Z500 engine, 2002, Feb. xxx serial.

Another great resource : (link surpressed by forum)

Grey market tractor is a whole other post. But this is a list of engine models and oil/air filters. As a bonus it has the tractor model numbers. When you go to the dealer life is alot simpler if you tell them you have a tractor. Although you may choose to tell them you removed the engine for another purpose such as pumping water... (under your hull). lol.

Fuel and Air filters may be changed by the marinizer, so double check them.

I had hell finding the Fram Oil filter. (rymes with Morrison) does a great job of hiding that along with westerbeke. Cost at Autozone $6, Cost at discount retailer $9+shipping.

I actually prefer to use a automotive alternator.... Autozone has a lifetime warranty. lol.

One other tidbit. Use an impact wrench to get your pulley nut loose. It will make very short work of it. Just watch your fingers and don't touch the contacts on the back. Some alternators bite when provoked.
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  #44  
Old 01-26-2009
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I'm repowering to a marinized Z500 (home bake 5411). Someone else did most of it. Can't for the life of me figure out where he got the plans and parts. They aren't standard and they weren't machined... they are cast parts. Not that machining would be difficult or expensive for this stuff.

How do they calculate the heat exchanger size? I'd guess that there is a formula that relates KW output to heat. Most engines are rated in Kilowatts as that is the metric way to measure engine output.

I find that checking the numbers has rewarded me multiple times where my boat is concerned. It debunks many myths and other expensive nonsense.

I also don't understand why the 5411 used such a puny raw water pump.

Speaking of raw water pumps. Depco in Florida is a really good resource for Johnson pumps. Volvo wanted $350+ and 4 weeks for a pump. Johnson had a retrofit pump for $165. Johnson makes Volvo's pump. GRRRRR.

Similar thing for an alternator bracket. I wound up making that out of a turnbuckle from home depot. Volvo part - $75, Home depot solution $3 and 4 trips there to find the right size.
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  #45  
Old 01-26-2009
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Welcome to sailnet. (you tickled an old thread.)
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  #46  
Old 04-07-2009
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Water pump.. HoffaLives, I'm curious as to where i can find a distributor for the British Leyland parts!!

I too have a need for a "westerbeke" freshwater pump. I simply cannot fork out $720 to torrenson for this piece. It looks just like a little old chevy part.
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  #47  
Old 04-07-2009
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That tickle is making cpatters giggle with joy........i2f
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  #48  
Old 04-07-2009
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Hoffa, thanks for the great thread. I do agree with Cosmos though, I didn't pipe in immediately because I didn't have any good info to add. My boat uses the Universal 5411 (Kabota Z500), so this is great information for me and for many others. I WILL kick in any useful info when I come across it.

Thanks again, Bill
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  #49  
Old 04-08-2009
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misinformation

ok looking around
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  #50  
Old 04-08-2009
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so at least as far as the westerbeke four-91 is concerned...
i am trying to draw conclusions from the information out there.

I've got 2 separate roads here.

a) westerbeke used the same blocks as, Leyland 154 (also called Leyland 4-25), and Nuffield 4-25.
these parts can be had domestically as Leyland diesel parts or overseas from tractor parts suppliers. In my instance the waterpump differed based on age.
-the actual pump found here-jcl
-the same p# else where-# 12H3203
So, the part started to fuzz and distort it may fit it may not. Which leads me to road (b)
(b) westerbeke in the USA is universal, they use kubota blocks, kubota is a tractor and the engine is D-1101 for a M30. That engine is used in the M5950. And here's that part
A-15451-74250


These tractor websites will hopefull give some folks some traction.
note:allpartsstore.com makes it easy b/c you can narrow down by part 1st then by mfg/model. so you can see all the potential parts nearly at once.
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