Re-bedding teak caprail

dhornsey · #1 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

After moving our boat from San Deigo to her new home in Vancouver Canada we've discovered the that teak cap rail of our Pacific Seacraft Mariah 31 leaks extensively. There's water coming through the screws, the hull/deck bolts, and probably the hull/deck joint itself.

I'm going to remove the cap rail and re-bed it. What I'm thinking of doing while I'm at it is fiberglassing over the hull/deck joint to ensure it stays water tight. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on this idea? Is it a waste of time/effort? Or advice on the re-bedding process in general? In my research some people suggest using 5200 while others say to stay away. Thoughts?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
-Doug

kwaltersmi · #2 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

I rebedded all of my deck hardware this summer. I used 3M 5200 for some applications and PC-11 Epoxy Paste (http://www.pcepoxy.com/pastepoxies/pastepc11.asp) in other areas. So far, I'm pleased with both products. The 5200 is more expensive but goes on easier (no mixing, use a caulk gun) and is much more flexible. The PC-11 is a two-part epoxy past that requires mixing and a putty knife for application. You can read more about my rebedding endeavours on my blog at http://www.sailblogs.com/member/dreambegins/

If you haven't already read them, I suggest any of Don Casey's books as a great reference for your project. This Old Boat is a good start.

I'm assuming your idea to fiberglass over the hull-to-deck joint involves sealing this joint from the inside. If so, you may need to consider if the joint still leaks from the outside (under the rubrail, perhaps?). If water is still coming in from the outside but not making its way into the cabin/interior because of the fiberglass cap, it still has to go somewhere. I'd be concerned if you have a cored deck or cored hull above the waterline. I'm not sure what the Mariah has, but it's something to consider. In regards to deck hardware, it's always wise to seal up the exterior bedding area with 5200/epoxy, but not the inside under the backing plates because future leaks will then go unnoticed until they cause much bigger problems. I assume the same concern holds true for the hull-to-deck joint.

dhornsey · #3 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

I was actually planning on fiberglassing over the joint from the outside - then rebedding the cap-rail over that. Unless that is a terrible idea for some reason I'm not yet aware of...

kwaltersmi · #4 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

That's a better plan than what I assumed you had in mind. I haven't heard of it being done, but I'm sure someone has. Stay tuned!

GBurton · #5 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

Check out this link for rebedding cap rail and filling with resin. Sounds like exactly what you are doing. I'm planning on doing it to our boat.

http://www.geocities.com/fluidmotion2/home_frame.html

Look under projects in New Zealand

dhornsey · #6 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007

Thanks Gburton - that link is helpful. They did a nice job of it.

Our situation is slightly different as our current cap rail has a groove cut out of the bottom of the teak. So once the teak was pulled off, we wouldn't just be fiberglassing a flat surface, there are 2 different levels - we'll have to fiberglass over e a 90 bend. I'm not sure if there is an issue with that.

I'm also wondering if it's too late in the year to dare attempt this. I've read that there are issues with fiberglassing in low temperatures?

Thanks again.
-Doug