Painting deck - Primer question - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance
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  #11  
Old 10-30-2007
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you ALWAYS prime the whole deck, then dont sand a thing till you can sand the whole thing in a 24 hour period,, then within 24 hours of sanding it needs to be painted.and you dont need to use a sprayer at all if you roll and tip,,,(cant help ya there) theres alot of threads around that have alot of praise and, tips, on roll and tipping. this thread is about orange but hits roll and tipping,, and you can message the guy on there that does alot of it
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sho...t=19835&page=3
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2007
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I got good results with interlux primer and topkote paint with non-skid added. I applied with a roller.
Also, did the engine cover with walnut shells, which was very time consuming but is killer non-skid. Almost a year now and no chips.

Last edited by sailboy21; 10-31-2007 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 10-31-2007
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After a 3 year rebuild, I painted my boat last winter. I used interlux perfection on the topsides and deck. The topsides were done using the roll and tip method with excellent results. I decided that the deck was going to be way too much work to roll and tip, so I sprayed. I couldn't be happier with the results. I didn't want a shine on the deck, so I used flattening agent in the paint. It turned out to have a pearl like glow to it. I also didn't sand between coats. On the non skid areas I mixed interlux intergrip into the paint, then sprayed. Really good traction on that stuff. Every time I step on a boat with the factory diamond pattern non skid I feel like I'm going to slip off.

I used an hvlp spray gun from cummins tools. You have to thin the paint more than the can says to get the pattern right, but it's not hard especially if you're not going for a good shine. The guns are only 30 bucks. I bought 2 guns, one for prime and one for paint. I didn't clean the guns when I finished, I just tossed them in the trash. The high dollar thinner from interlux cost almost as much as the gun.

The paint turned out to be hard as rocks. One season of using the boat every weekend has given us just 2 chips. Those chips also came with gel coat attached so I can hardly fault the paint.
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Old 10-31-2007
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Be VERY VERY careful what you choose to spray!!
Atomized 2 part poly will give off cyanide gas and KILL! You ned positive pressure breathing gear and need to do it in a proper location.
No kidding! - At the very lest, pick up a copy of Don Casey's buck on friberglass repair/refinishing. It has lots of great info.
T
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Old 10-31-2007
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I intend to roll and tip the smooth areas, and roll the non-skid areas with beads added. Because the vast majority of the deck is non-skid, I don't think it will take that long once I get her taped up.
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Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardo View Post
Don Casey recommends adding the particulate matter to the primer, so that you will encapsulate the beads with the 2 coats of paint. Everyone concur?
It depends on the addative you use. If you're using sand, I would say follow Casey's advice. If using the intergrip, follow interlux's instructions which is to mix it in the paint, let it set for 20 minutes or so, stir and paint. I wouldn't want a coat of paint over the finish I got. It turned out perfect.

I also agree with the need for proper respirators when spraying 2 part paints. I didn't have pressurized breathing air available when I sprayed my deck, but I did use a high quality respirator for automotive painting with good cartridges. I shot the paint (took about 30 minutes per coat) then left the building. I also used an hvlp gun which put much less paint in the air than a standard sprayer. Those 2 part paints are awesome, but they will kill you.

John
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Old 10-31-2007
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with awl-grip i put on 1 coat of color, then add the non-skid to the next 2 coats, by mixing in with paint then letting it sit ferawhile then stir and paint.
andwhat everyone has said about health is right, awl-grip says you need a pos. press. helmet. i only use a resperator, but then again im not the sharpest tool in the box. and i ALWAYS tell others to use the helmet.
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One problem I've heard of with the anti-skid additive is that if its color is very different from the paint, it will start to show through fairly soon. Use a color close to the paint color if you can.
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Old 10-31-2007
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jim is right, especially if your going to use the paint, then, sift,or sprinkle way, or if you just paint over the non-skid
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