I removed all stanchions, pulpits, cleats, winches, intruments, etc... Also removed cockpit locker hatch supports (wood), all hinges, fittings, mast step, grab rails, hatch slider rails, windows, etc, etc...
Did not remove wood around companionway entrance, toerail (way way too much work and huge potential problems if done incorrectly) or genoa and jib tracks (rebedded last year and a whole lot of work).
While cleaning the still attached woodwork for refinishing I noticed that the edge of the paint where it was taped could be a weak point. You are definitely right about this. My solution is a thin bead of silicon (or maybe even 4200) in the corner where the wood meets the paint. I used this trick when laying cushion flooring in home bathroom to prevent the edges lifting where the floor meets the bath tub. I may also do this around the genoa tracks and toerail edge if I suspect problems with paint edge.
My concern is the durability of the paint where flex occurs in a deck, where there is foot traffic and where blocks, whisker/spinnaker poles, etc... typically rub the paint. Does anybody have experience with this and Interthane Plus?
As for cost ... Yes it is expensive, especially when you have experiences with painting outdoors that entails extra sanding and additional coats. The company I work for has a marine supply division that stocks Interlux products. Thankfully this helps somewhat with the costs.
One final comment. I used the leftover Interthane Plus to paint my hard dingy. When I was finished some paint was remaining in the roller pan (about 1/4 inch). I left it to harden. Two weeks later I pulled it out of the pan and it is like a piece of flexible rubber. Is this normal?
Thanks again and good luck to all the other painters out there!