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  #1  
Old 11-26-2007
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Plumbing for Pump-Out

I own a 1979 26' Paceship that does not have the pump-out hose connected. Waste runs directly through a macerator and out of the boat. I would very much like to change this so that I can pump waste out directly and not run afoul of the authorities.

Wondering about a couple of things: 1) What does a typical waste set-up look like? It seems as though I would just need to install a y-valve and then connect to the pump-out. 2) Based on #1 would you recommend removing the macerator? If the macerator stays, and I believe it would if the y-vlavle is installed, does it need to be run during pump-out?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 11-26-2007
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There are a couple of ways you can do this.

1) Connect the output of the head to the holding tank, and then put a diverter valve in the pumpout line on the holding tank with one side going up to the deck pumpout fitting, and the other going to the macerator pump and the through-hull.

This setup doesn't allow you to pump the head directly overboard, but it does allow you to empty the holding tank overboard, when out past the three-mile limit, and still allows you to use a shore-based pumpout facility

2) Connect the output of the head to a diverter valve, which has one side running to the macerator pump and the through-hull, and the other goes to the holding tank.

This allows you to dump the head overboard when out past the three-mile limit, and allows you to use the holding tank when inside the three-mile limit. However, this requires you to use a pumpout facility to empty the holding tank.

You can also have a more complicated setup, where the head can go either into a holding tank or overboard, and then have the holding tank pumpout fitting go either overboard or to the deck fitting, but that is far more complex and requires more hose and more diverter valves, and doesn't really gain you anything over the first setup. Yes, with the first setup to dump the head overboard you have to pump twice... but the first setup minimizes the hoses and equipment needed and maximizes your effective options.

BTW, the first setup is what I changed my boat over to, when it was originally setup as the second setup. The only difference is that I went with a manual diaphragm pump, rather than an electric macerator, since I wanted to minimize electrical usage on my boat.
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2007
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Here is a link to Peggy the head mistress
http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/menunew.tpl?fno=11
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SD,

I like option 1, it's what I had in mind. However, unless my eyes deceive me the macerator is connected directly to the holding tank. This is why I asked about having to run the macerator at the pumping station. Would you recommend disconnecting it and moving to the other side of the y-valve?

Also I like the idea of the manual pump. I'm not familiar with the size of that. Where do you have that installed?

CD, thanks for the link.
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How is the tank your boat currently plumbed... from what you just said, the head goes into a holding tank, and the holding tank output goes directly to a macerator that is connected to the through-hull.

IF this is the case, then you would add a hose to the pumpout fitting on the tank, and put a diverter valve on it... and lead one side of the diverter valve to the macerator pump, and lead the other side to the deck fitting. This way, you don't need to run the macerator pump when pumping out through the deck fitting, but can use the macerator pump to dump the holding tank while out past the three mile limit.
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a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

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Old 11-26-2007
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diagram

Just remembered this one
go to this site for Raritan they have diagrams in the owners manuals showing how the systems should be set up (above & below the water line)
http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/ph_II/L04v0505.pdf
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